Benoit Déhu’s family’s estate, Déhu Père et Fils, first began producing wine in 1787. Benoit is the eighth generation to work the these same ancient vines, planted in limestone in the village of Fossoy on the western border of the Vallée de la Marne. Despite an indulgent life split between Paris and Champagne and a promising career with Bollinger, Benoit longed to return home to his family estate. Upon his return to Fossoy, he quickly transitioned the family’s vines to organic and biodynamic viticulture. In 2011, he sliced off a small, and particularly special, 1.7-hectare parcel of Pinot Meunier planted on limestone for his own personal label. This tiny parcel is farmed in strict accordance with biodynamic principles. There are no herbicides or pesticides and no tractors; just hours of manual labor and the assistance of one plow and a horse named Violette. Following harvest, Benoit ferments and ages his wines in barrels made from French oak harvested from forests around the vineyard. The result is an inimitably terroir-driven and extremely refined Champagne.

As has become typical of many grower-produced Champagnes, “La Rue de Noyers” is based on a single vintage (2012) but doesn’t say so anywhere on its label. With three years of barrel aging and 2+ more years of bottle age following its October, 2015 disgorgement, this wine is enjoyable now, but still demands a few more years before it really starts to fire on all cylinders. In other words: if you have the patience, please do not drink it before 2020. Not unlike a top Grand Cru Chablis, this young wine shows unbelievable minerality, power and depth today. It’s a monument of solid stone, flint, and ash. Still, the gorgeous fruit, flowers, and fine details that make this such a sought-after bottle are only just beginning to unfurl, so you’d be wise to wait another 18 months. Once you do, take my word that minds will be blown. When you do finally pull the cork on this beauty, I encourage you to serve it at 50-55 degrees in high quality, modern Champagne flutes—Zalto’s “Denk'Art” stems are a phenomenal choice for today’s wine. This is a truly world-class wine and there’s no better way to experience it than alongside one of northern California’s greatest contributions to modern cuisine. Russell Moore, owner of Oakland’s Camino restaurant, is a Chez Panisse alum and a respected chef in his own right. He has built a strong following over the last 10 years by putting out soulful, farm-driven cuisine on one of this underappreciated city’s forgotten blocks. Throughout the crab season, Camino invites customers to a weekly “Crabby Monday” celebration with wood fire-grilled Dungeness Crab as its centerpiece. This is the perfect wine for grilled crab, so I urge you to take a crack at this recipe at home—it’s a delicious combination!