I’ve said before that I’d happily drink any vintage of Odilio Antoniotti’s Nebbiolo-based reds over many far-pricier releases from Barolo and Barbaresco, if only the opportunity presented itself more often. To say that these truly phenomenal wines are merely “scarce” or “limited” is a gross understatement.
For all intents and purposes, Antoniotti is invisible and all but impossible to acquire in the US—but that doesn’t stop us from trying! We have a standing, “we’ll-take-everything-you-have” order with Antoniotti’s importer and today is the lucky day. This phenomenal 2014 Costa della Sesia, from an ancient 1500+ foot “clos” tucked high in the alps, is a thrilling, one way ticket to Italy, circa-1910. It effortlessly combines the dark fruit and ethereal floral beauty of old-school Barbaresco with the three dimensional savor and prismatic detail of vintage red Burgundy. At $32 and limited to six bottles per customer, this is a must for anyone who loves hand-crafted northern Italian reds as much as I do.
Visiting Odilio Antoniotti and his son, Mattia, in the mountainous Piedmontese village of Casa del Bosco is a remarkable experience. Their home/cellar has was built in the 1700s and wine has been produced therein ever since. It is like a museum exhibition that demonstrates how pre-industrial wine was made: grapes are harvested by hand in the adjacent vineyard, then channeled through old grated windows into the family’s basement where they ferment in ancient brick-encased cement vats that are built into the walls. There are no filters, no modern machinery, and almost everything is done by hand, using gravity as the primary force that drives wine from point A to B; and to its eventual home in a hand-corked bottle. This simplicity, impressive patience, and attention to detail is obvious in every aspect of the family’s work—and did I mention that each individual wine label is applied by hand with a paintbrush and glue? It’s fascinating, and in tasting overtly “old school” wines like Antoniotti, I often wonder if there is a soulfulness, purity, and depth that sometimes gets lost when everything is measured, controlled and touched by machinery instead of human hands.
Today we are sharing Odilio’s 2014 Coste della Sesia DOC Nebbiolo. While this wine contains a small amount of Croatina, its character is driven entirely by its principle grape, Nebbiolo. With a crimson and dark garnet center and burnt orange tones on the rim, this is classic Nebbiolo from the moment it lands in your glass. Dark cherry and black plum meet the familiar terroir aromatics of this walled vineyard’s porphyric soils. After exposure to air softens the initial salvo of fruit and earth, a gorgeous diversity of flowers and secondary notes take over—dried and wet roses, gingerbread, and red tobacco continue to evolve for many hours. I’ve noted before that, on the palate, Antoniotti Nebbiolo often resembles back-vintage central Burgundian reds. There’s a sense of lift and verticality that propels the fruit and savory aromas across your palate—this wine is a real treat, believe me. Of course, it would be a shame to squander such deliciousness on an empty stomach! So, while it might take a little extra hunting to find this cut, I encourage you to devote a Saturday afternoon to properly slow-roasting or braising lamb necks. It’s one of my favorite underappreciated lamb cut and this recipe perfect Italian “soul food” companion to today’s soulful red.
