As debuts go, it’s hard to beat what Domaine des Ardoisières has achieved in a relatively short period of time. We were introduced to this producer, and this wine, just a few vintages ago and now have a standing order with its importer.
It is that good, and that distinctive; this white blend from the upper reaches of France’s Savoie region, “Argile,” wowed our subscribers when we offered the 2015, so we were excited to wave in the new release. More classically structured than the fleshier ’15, the 2016 Argile really is the ultimate ‘mountain’ white, sourced from some of the highest-elevation vineyards in the world located in the foothills of the French Alps. Driven by Savoie’s native Jacquère grape blended with Chardonnay, this is a white with all the structure and mineral grip of a good white Burgundy, with a more floral aromatic profile that transports you to a cool mountain meadow. This wine has a huge following in Europe and it seems every great wine list I come across has it listed (not surprising considering how good it is). Whether you’re new to Savoie whites or an old hand, Domaine des Ardoisières elevates the game—this is a deeply mineral wine that channels both Grand Cru Chablis and Hermitage Blanc in its flavors and texture. Grab some before it disappears into restaurant cellars; we can offer 6 bottles per customer until it sells out.
The first thing we need to do in discussing this wine is decode its rather crowded label, which is a Google search waiting to happen: It should be clear that ‘Domaine des Ardoisières’ is the producer’s name, but then things get interesting. This bottling is labeled with the ‘IGP’ (Indication Géographique Protégée) ‘Vin des Allobroges,’ referring to the Allobroges area of the Savoie—where France, Italy, and Switzerland meet (an IGP is less prescribed than an AOC designation, focused just on the geographic origins of the grapes used in the wine). You’ll also see ‘St. Pierre de Soucy’ and ‘Villard d’Héry’ on this label: These are two neighboring villages in which Domaine des Ardoisières has planted vines, and here their mention functions as a vineyard designation. The vineyards are clay-based marls mixed with schist, a different composition from some of their other holdings, a fact which is also acknowledged on this bottle via the name “Argile” (argile being French for clay).
Domaine des Ardoisières was founded in the late-1990s by a group of partners who painstakingly cleared, repaired, and replanted a series of terraces that had supported vines back in Roman times. Farming organically (and incorporating biodynamic treatments as well), the partners brought in winemaker Brice Omont in 2005. A native of Champagne, Omont has turned the domaine into a hot commodity in a short time, producing five different cuvées (three white, two red) from native local varieties. They’ve only been imported to the US for a few years now, but they’ve caught on quickly, to say the least.
The 2016 “Argile” is a blend of 40% Jacquère, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Mondeuse Blanche fermented in a mix of stainless steel tanks (two-thirds) and used French oak
barriques (one-third). It was aged in used barrels for about eight months before bottling. In the glass, it is a pale straw-gold with green and silver reflections at the rim. The aromas are a beguiling mix of yellow apple, white peach, dried acacia flowers, dried white mushrooms, lees, and a smoky, stony note reminiscent of Loire Valley
silex (flint). On the palate the wine is textured, creamy even, but at the same time resolutely mineral, fresh and saline. There are certainly some Chablisienne characteristics here, with the Jacquère lending a floral component. In nearly every respect, it is reminiscent of the ’15, although I believe this vintage has greater aging potential (it will really start to sing in 3-5 years); if you’re drinking a bottle now, decant it a good 45 minutes before serving in all-purpose white wine stems or larger Burgundy bowls. We recommended cheese fondue as a pairing last year and I’m hankering to revisit the combination—they were made for each other! Cheers!
