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Domaine Delagrange, Bourgogne Blanc
If I had a nickel for every affordable Burgundy we’ve passed on at our tasting table, I could’ve retired years ago—which is why we should remember that affordability doesn’t always equal value. That’s not to say these ‘passes’ were bad wines—most hit the base quality markers—but we’re looking for wines that leave a lasting imprint. Cue the arrival of Domaine Delagrange and today’s sensational Burgundy bargain. Sure, you may initially see it as mere “Bourgogne Blanc,” but there are a combination of factors at play that put this bottle way over the top.
At its core, this has the cleanliness of Chablis, but the warmer climate and especially ripe 2015 vintage adds an extra, rounded layer of ‘oomph’ that made us salivate. Furthermore, this is from a young one-acre parcel named “Amerot” on the fringe of Volnay—an appellation exclusively tailored to Pinot Noir production—so anytime a winemaking avant-garde seeks to break the mold of Burgundy politics without breaking the traditional style we know and love, I fully embrace it. Today’s Bourgogne Blanc is Didier Delagrange’s inaugural bottling from these vines and the first time it’s reached America’s shores. This is a unique find from a highly adept winemaking mind eagerly pushing the boundaries of what an “entry-level” white Burgundy can achieve. There is no need to wait for this to mature—it’s ready to impress upon arriving at your doorstep—and after consuming you’ll be clamoring for Delagrange’s sophomore release. Until that time comes, enjoy his incredible 2015; we wrangled up a boatload, so feel free to stock up!
At its core, this has the cleanliness of Chablis, but the warmer climate and especially ripe 2015 vintage adds an extra, rounded layer of ‘oomph’ that made us salivate. Furthermore, this is from a young one-acre parcel named “Amerot” on the fringe of Volnay—an appellation exclusively tailored to Pinot Noir production—so anytime a winemaking avant-garde seeks to break the mold of Burgundy politics without breaking the traditional style we know and love, I fully embrace it. Today’s Bourgogne Blanc is Didier Delagrange’s inaugural bottling from these vines and the first time it’s reached America’s shores. This is a unique find from a highly adept winemaking mind eagerly pushing the boundaries of what an “entry-level” white Burgundy can achieve. There is no need to wait for this to mature—it’s ready to impress upon arriving at your doorstep—and after consuming you’ll be clamoring for Delagrange’s sophomore release. Until that time comes, enjoy his incredible 2015; we wrangled up a boatload, so feel free to stock up!
Though they’d been working in the vines long before, the Delagrange family established its domaine in 1978, crafting wines mostly from the soils of Volnay and Pommard. Today, their estate-owned vines expand throughout the Côte de Beaune, from Meursault to Corton. Didier Delagrange now represents the sixth generation of his family, having worked alongside his parents in 1990 after finishing his wine studies in neighboring Beaune. He assisted them in both vineyard and cellar for 13 years before they handed over the reins.
Volnay has been planted to Pinot Noir for centuries now and when classification came in 1937, they kept it that way. Still, that hasn’t stopped Didier from planting his own parcel of Chardonnay here—he just can’t put “Volnay” on his label. His small plot consists of young vines planted in limestone and schist soils and though planting density is high, yields are curtailed, resulting in a concentrated and fully ripe crop. Though not certified, Didier follows organic practices in ‘lutte raisonée’ fashion: he prepares both soil and vine without chemicals and follows a plowing regimen throughout the year. After a hand harvest, the grapes were softly pressed and indigenous yeasts triggered both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. The wine then aged in stainless steel vats for 17 months before being bottled lightly fined and filtered.
In the glass, the Delagrange ’15 displays a bright straw yellow core with green and silver-tinted reflections on the rim. The warmth of 2015 is immediately noticeable on the nose, with yellow apple skin, apricot core, meyer lemon, lime blossoms, white peach skin, honeysuckle, white flowers, crushed chalk, and wet stone. The combination of vintage and stainless steel aging provides a clean, supremely fresh mouthfeel, but the depth it brings will surprise you. The palate is a full-on interplay of ripe, round fruit and live-wire tension that Côte de Beaune Chardonnay is so famous for. While I can see this wine retaining its vigor over the next five years, its best drinking will come over the next one or two—probably music to your ears! No need to decant here, simply air the wine out in a Burgundy stem and enjoy over a 1-2 hour period. You’re going to enjoy yourself with this one, and if you’re wanting to take it up a notch without spending much time or money, pair it next to a simple preparation of pan-roasted chicken. Cheers!
