We offer a continuous stream of Burgundy on this site, but you’ll notice Grand Crus come rather infrequently—because of their exorbitant pricing—so, we’re always at our observation posts, scanning the horizon for affordable look-alikes. Today’s Authentique is, simply, a screaming deal; it’s a top expression of Oregon Pinot Noir (from a Certified Biodynamic vineyard) crafted in a Burgundian style.
It’s voluptuous and elegant all in one, full of rich textures and woodsy undertones that echo the Grand Crus above Morey-Saint-Denis. Still, there is a lifted layer of fruit—with near-perfect ripeness that we all crave in top-notch Burgundy—that delivers a juicy and lush mouthfeel. As you read, this remaining lot sits in its original Oregon cellar, where they have rested undisturbed since being bottled four years ago. This library release—essentially meaning the aging has been done for you—is entering its drinking window now and will easily last 10+ years. There are many joys in the world of wine and we’re offering up three of them today: top Oregon Pinot, a library release, and a price that would be tripled if the label was of Burgundian nature. The greatest satisfaction, however, ultimately comes from tasting. I can confidently say Authentique is one of Willamette Valley’s great Pinot Noirs, especially with a few years of age under its belt, and anyone who is searching for a top expression should jump on this; it’s a force to be reckoned with and one Burgundy aficionados should not—cannot—ignore.
Nicholas Keeler, founder of today’s Authentique label is the son of Craig and Gabriele Keeler, who run their own winery aptly named ‘Keeler Estate Vineyard.’ At the time of their purchase in 1990, this forgotten land was occupied with wild berries and undergrowth so Craig and Gabriele began a years-long process of vineyard conversion. Today, it is a fully-functioning ecosystem; a biodynamic sanctuary rife with wildlife, streams, ponds, and woodland. Nicholas crafts small-batch, classically-styled wines from various single vineyard sites around Willamette Valley, but his family’s biodynamic property in Eola-Amity Hills is the bottling he cherishes most. He currently uses his parents’ winery for production, aging, and storage.
Stepping into vineyard territory in Western Oregon is a massive leap into the ancient past. For 35 million years, the land here served as the Pacific Ocean’s placemat and when the land finally came up for air, its soils were rich in volcanic and marine sediment. Over the past few decades, winemaking has erupted here, giving birth to Willamette Valley and sub-appellations with distinctive terroirs, like the iron-rich, volcanic Jory soils of Eola-Amity Hills. Today’s bottle is sourced from Authentique’s family-owned Keeler Estate Vineyard, which is held to rigorous environmental standards—both Demeter Biodynamic and Stellar Organic certified. This vineyard lies on a southwest-facing hillside and enjoys the cooling maritime breeze via the Van Duzer corridor. Harvest was carried out entirely by hand in October of 2012 and the grapes were fermented 50% whole cluster in large 500-liter barrels (puncheons) before aging in 40% new French oak for ~16 months. It has been in bottle since March of 2014.
In the glass, the wine displays an impressively dense, dark ruby core with minimal signs of aging around its slight garnet and pink-toned rim. It’s nose is full of highly-nuanced, near-ripe fruit that only the finest examples of Burgundy deliver. You’ll experience a rush of wild huckleberry, black raspberry, blueberry, black cherry, and licorice closely followed by underbrush, black tea, wildflowers, forest floor, damp herbs, and a blend of baking spices. The palate is delicately structure with rounded tannins and a refreshing acidic lift, but don’t mistake this for a lightweight Oregonian Pinot—there is serious polish and weight that coats your mouth with finely-tuned notes of fruit and savory earth. This wine is ready to enjoy now and I recommend pulling the cork an hour before pouring into large Burgundy stems. Allow it to open up and evolve in your glass while you slowly consume it over a period of a couple hours. While this wine is indeed entering its peak, it will drink well over the next decade and beyond, developing more complexity and savory components as years go by. A classic Burgundy pairing will accompany this wine perfectly: herb-roasted duck in a cherry sauce.