If you’ve been a SommSelect subscriber for more than a few months, you’re likely familiar with Luis Rodriguez. Long story short, we believe these are some of the most complex, cellar worthy, and downright outstanding wines not only in Spain, but all of Europe. Of course, we are not the first ones to recognize this man’s extraordinary gifts in the vines and cellar, so sourcing inventory has become an increasingly challenging task.
But no matter red or white, when we see Luis’ name written in small script at the bottom of a label, we rest assured the wine behind it is mind-blowing. These wines are not only exceptional in quality; they are also remarkably diverse in style. Depending on the cuvée and vineyard source, Luis covers the spectrum from lean and mineral white, all the way up to powerful and mouth-filling red—and seemingly everything between! Today’s 2013 “A Teixa” is his ‘sweet spot’ white. The soft fruit of a Premier Cru white from Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune; the intense minerality of top Albariño; and a refined and expressive aroma that is unique to Luis’ remote and fascinating appellation: Ribeiro. This is Luis’ only single-vineyard release and 250 cases exist on earth. Translation: grab some before it’s gone!
Luis Rodriguez pulls fruit from more than 100 “micro-parcels” in the rural Galician village of Arnoia in order to produce his impressive diversity of wines— and these numerous tiny vineyards still only make up five hectares total. “A Teixa” is brought to life through a combination of Albariño, Godello, and Treixadura planted in a single granite/sand vineyard. Each Autumn, he harvests clusters by hand before pressing juice into an enormous, 2,300-liter oak barrel where it will be raised with only wild, airborne yeast to aid in fermentation. The wine remains in barrel, aging on its lees for an entire year before being racked into bottles where it continues to integrate and mature in Luis’ cellar for an additional year. Luis’ wines get snatched up on release in the US, so this 2013 vintage of “A Teixa”—originally released in 2015—is a particularly rare, back-vintage treat. It has had two-plus years of bottle age and is absolutely peaking right now.
In Rodriguez’ expansive lineup, “A Teixa” is, for me, his most instantly gratifying and easy to embrace white. There are more powerful wines like his “Escolma” and more purely mineral ones like his “Os Pasas,” but “A Teixa” always delivers an exquisite combination of richly textural fruit and one-of-a-kind aromas, all tied together with pristine mineral freshness. In texture, weight and balance, it reminds me of great Premier cru white Burgundy, but the aromas are where things get interesting. One’s first impression of the nose is of white stone, yellow apple, and wild herbs, but soon thereafter, fleshy white peach notes, bruised apricot, green mango and exotic flowers start to emerge. The longer this wine stays exposed to air, the more exciting it becomes. The palate rewards patience as well. It begins with the bracing, appetite-whetting acidity one expects from a Galician white that leans on Albariño. Still, with a little bit of oxygen, the wine reveals itself as a sneakily viscous, mouth-filling white. The minerality remains the star of the show, but there are moments where white Hermitage-like richness makes a cameo. As with all of Luis’ wines, the 2013 “A Teixa” evolves and becomes more enthralling with each glass. Serve it in large Burgundy stems at 55-60 degrees. This is a complex, multi-layered white so I encourage you to prepare simple cuisine that will let its details shine brightly. If you have a special upcoming dinner with friends or family and multiple bottles, this rare white is the perfect companion to a first course of clams, mussels, prawns, and scallops gently poached in white wine and butter w/ fresh herbs. Today’s wine and this dish, served family-style in a large platter w/ sliced baguette, will make clear to your guests that you mean business, and that you understand how sometimes the simplest, most elemental dishes can be the best pairing for a truly world-class wine. Cheers!
