The Lefèvres took over the Sulauze property in 2004 and immediately began the conversion to organic farming (they are now certified organic and biodynamic). Headquartered about an hour west of Aix-en-Provence in the village of Miramas, the domaine is fairly large, spreading across 500 hectares, although much of that is scrubland. Overall, Guillaume and Karina manage about 80 hectares of cultivated land, with 29 devoted to vineyards and the rest planted to grains, olives, and vegetable gardens. The farm is a trove of historic structures, including a functional bread oven dating to 1882 and a fourth-century chapel that is used as an aging cellar. Guillaume Lefèvre lists himself as the estate’s “Winemaker Peasant” on their website, which offers good insight into the spirit and approach behind their wines.

“Galinette” (“little chicken” in Provençal) carries the Côteaux d’Aix-en-Provence AOC designation, and is comprised of 40% Grenache Blanc, 20% Ugni Blanc, 20% Clairette, and 20% Vermentino—many of the same varieties found in the white version of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which this wine resembles in some ways. Grown in a mix of clay and sandstone, most of the grapes for Galinette (90%) were fermented using only indigenous yeasts in concrete vats and the remainder in used French oak casks. The wine was aged briefly in tank before being bottled unfiltered, with a minimal addition of sulfur at bottling.

Tasting this 2016 sparked an animated discussion around the tasting table: It is an unmistakably ‘Mediterranean’ white, with hints of sea-spray and exotic floral notes, yet, unlike other coastal whites like, say, Muscadet or Spanish Albariño, it has a Rhône-like richness of texture that owes not just to Grenache Blanc but to the warm Provençal climate. That said, what sets this wine apart is its perfect melding of texture and freshness. In the glass, it’s a deep yellow-gold with hints of green at the rim, with heady aromas of white peach, yellow apple, citrus rind, beeswax, green herbs, white flowers, and sea spray. Medium-plus in body, the fruit leans almost tropical on the palate but is checked by a saline minerality and fresh acidity that lends balance and savor. It is ready to pop and pour in all-purpose white wine glasses at 50 degrees, and as I noted above, it’s a great white for whatever winter seafood or poultry preparation you’ve got cooking. My thought was something breaded and baked, as in the attached recipe, but the possibilities are myriad. If you’re looking for a night off from white Burgundy, this one is well-worth your time. Cheers!