The appellation of Margaux, immortalized by the singular Château Margaux, is historically known to make the most polished wines of Haut-Médoc, boasting lovely concentration and weight only matched by its perfumed elegance. But why must we shell out triple digits (not even factoring in Château Margaux, whose prices go even higher) to experience the upper crust of Bordeaux?
I’m willing to indulge in these blue-chip wines when the situation is right, but otherwise I’m forever on the prowl for top-tier quality at more affordable prices. Where in Margaux to look? Husband-wife team Xavier and Julie Gonet-Medeville purchased Château des Eyrins in 2008 from Eric Grangerou, whose family worked as cellarmasters at Château Margaux for three generations. The sale came with seven acres spread out over three well-placed parcels and the largest is up on a plateau bordered by Château Margaux vines (they can thank the previous owners for this prime real estate). That, along with the enthusiastic spirit and wherewithal of the young Gonet-Medevilles, is a perfect recipe for the value wines I love. With its modest price tag, it expresses itself immensely and quickly places itself in top Bordeaux conversation—if labeled as a Second Growth, there wouldn’t be any skeptics; the quality and depth is clearly here. And though they’ve only released a handful of vintages since their 2008 takeover, this estate is an automatic answer for the age-old question: How can I drink premier Bordeaux without paying a premium for it? I assure you this will impress any Bordeauxphile—even more so after decanting or aging.
Xavier and Julie are a French wine power couple. Not much older than myself, they are owners of a boutique Champagne house in Côte des Blancs’ Les Mesnil; the inimitable Château Gilette in Sauternes (fun fact: the current release is 1990); and today’s Château des Eyrins from Margaux, among others. Both worked under the direction of her parents for eight years until venturing out on their own in 2005. Now with ownership in what seems like every shade and style of wine (sparkling, white, red, sweet), they’ve quickly created a name for themselves in the wine world. Though both of their families have rich histories in the business, Xavier and Julie’s focus on small-production, conscientiously-crafted wines are among the best of any “newcomer.”
Soils in the Château des Eyrins vineyards are the thinnest and most gravelly in all of Haut-Medoc, meaning their 40-year-old vines have deep-reaching roots—great for absorbing nutrients and groundwater. Their grapes were harvested by hand and fermentation was carried out in stainless steel tanks. The cépage (blend) for 2014 was 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot and the wine aged in 50% new French oak for 18 months. The ’14 vintage brought considerable amounts of rain but ended up with warm and dry conditions in the closing months of the growing season. This created a wine accessible in its youth with concentrated fruit and a fine structure that will allow it to age gracefully over the following decade.
Seeing the sheer density of this wine is enough to sell me on it. The deep crimson core holds serious weight that leads out to a rim flecked with garnet and ruby red. What the ’14 reveals on the nose is indicative of only the finest Bordeaux: a sense of regal fruit and refinement with underlying earth. Ripe blackberry, currant, black plum, black cherry liqueur, and molasses roll off the initial nose. Following, are finessed, terroir-driven notes of black truffle, red tobacco, crushed gravel, and cedar. Various baking spices along with ground coffee, raw vanilla, and cedar further complement the nose. This is an undoubtedly classic Margaux with a degree of freshness and depth that tops my list of 2014 Bordeaux. It will go the distance, too—entering its peak in 2020 and performing at a high level for 10-15 years. Show this wine about an hour decant before serving in large Bordeaux stems, but above all, pace yourself in order to witness and savor all the above-mentioned notes. Serve alongside a tried-and-true pairing for youthful Bordeaux: grilled ribeye, medium-rare. Cheers!
