“Cuvée Spaciale”—a ‘spatial’ wine with a wine-drinking astronaut on the label? I’ll admit that I was skeptical at first, but one taste changed my tune, and fast.
For starters, it comes from one my favorite cru villages, Fleurie, and is sourced from ancient vines situated on some of Beaujolais’ highest elevations. The producer, Château de Grand Pré, also practices biodynamic farming, yields are half of Grand Cru Burgundy (especially important in a region that has some of the world's highest vine densities), and fermentation occurs in a spherical concrete vessel known as ‘Sputnik.’ In short order, it has rocketed to the top of my Beaujolais list. It has an astoundingly fresh core that pulses with energy—the interplay of pure fruit and wild herb is absolutely gorgeous. The bright and lifted “juiciness” of Fleurie is fully present, but the wine takes on a fuller body, flaunting levels of concentration and structure often found in the top examples of Morgon. This is not a wine (or label) that will be slipping from your mind anytime soon; it’s incredibly serious Beaujolais at an unmatchable price, a wine of which you’ll never tire. The few countries they do export to (we’re the only one outside of Europe) only receive small quantities, so stock up while you can!
In 1972, Louis and Renée Bertrand took over Château de Grand Pré and its respective vineyards. They own eight hectares in total, mostly located in the Crus of Fleurie (where they are headquarted) and neighboring Morgon. After handing the domaine down to their children, Guy and Christine (along with their respective partners), a major push toward environmental care was established. Within the last decade, Louis and Renée’s grandson, Romain, returned to the domaine after working at wineries across the world and started introducing natural practices.
Grapes for “Cuvée Spaciale” come from steep hillside vineyards on the slope of the famed La Madone hill, and their Gamay vines are pushing 70 years of age. These vieilles vignes, farmed organically, sit eastward, soaking up all bits of sun exposure and are rooted in Beaujolais’ classic granite-sand soils. A rigorous pruning regimen is conducted in the vineyard—making yields even lower—and all grapes are harvested by hand. As Romain notes: “Very low production and super good grapes, always small.” The juice sees a lengthy contact with the grape skins (which adds additional body and structure) and fermentation occurs with only ambient yeasts. Romain makes sure to use minimal sulfites throughout the entire process, occasionally eschewing them altogether. After fermenting in the ‘Sputnik’ vessel, the wine is gently transferred into large 600-liter neutral oak barrels (hogsheads) for seven months. It is always bottled unfiltered.
In the glass, the 2016 “Cuvée Spaciale” displays a deep ruby red core with hints of crimson at the rim. There is impressive concentration here—thanks to the lengthy maceration—and the wine burst with fruit and herb notes. Expect to pick up perfumed aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry, bing cherry, fresh blueberry, hints of licorice, crushed stone, wild herbs, and lingering spice. The wine may smell delicate and light, but there is serious weight on the palate, enough to make me wonder how this doesn’t cost more. Medium plus-bodied, it displays a dazzling array of wild red and blue fruit on the palate with wonderful layers of minerality and spice. Along with an impressive tannic structure, this Beaujolais demonstrates just how substantial Fleurie Cru can be from ancient, low-yielding vines. Give it a 30-minute decant or allow it to open up in the bottle for an hour before serving in Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees. It is simultaneously weighty and high-toned and will pair beautifully with a proper coq au vin. The attached recipe is a project, but well-worth the effort. Cheers!