The best word I can think of to describe Confuron-Cotetidot is “archetypal.” I don’t say that lightly, but when I think of producers who epitomize traditional Burgundy, this domaine is always top of mind.
There are plenty of instances when a red Burgundy might be mistaken for a Pinot Noir from the New World—and vice-versa—but the reds of Confuron-Cotetidot will never be mistaken for anything but Burgundy. These are Pinot Noirs that speak as clearly of the woods and the soil as they do the grape variety itself, and today’s 2013 Premier Cru “Les Suchots” is one of the estate’s top wines—from a vineyard surrounded by the world’s best (see map in next paragraph). This wine’s combination of vineyard and vintage (the vastly underrated 2013) is readily evident in the glass—while it’s a pleasure to drink now, it is, like most of the Confuron-Cotetidot lineup, built for the long haul. Perhaps most notable, however, is the value proposition here: This is perhaps the most well-placed Premier Cru vineyard in the Côte de Nuits, with the vast majority of wines from other producers clocking in at twice the price. As investment wines go, this one’s an undervalued asset, but sadly, our quantities are extremely limited—we can offer up to three bottles per customer until our allocation runs out.
“Les Suchots” is classified as Premier Cru, which, if you look at a vineyard
map of Vosne-Romanée, is a head-scratcher, to say the least. How the heck is this not a Grand Cru? It is literally surrounded on all sides by Grand Cru sites (“Richebourg,” “Romanée-St-Vivant,” “Echézeaux”), and in the hands of brothers Yves and Jean-Pierre Confuron, it certainly behaves like one. The Confurons, a farming family in Vosne since the 17th century, have never introduced a single chemical pesticide or herbicide to their 11 hectares of vineyards, and their portion of Les Suchots boasts vines between 60 and 80 years of age.
These old vines keep yields naturally low, which delivers the great concentration you’ll find in this 2013. The Confurons use 100% whole grape clusters in their fermentations, and typically macerate the grapes on their skins for 2-3 weeks, both practices lending their wines a characteristic tannic grip that takes time in the cellar to resolve. Les Suchots was aged for two years in a mix of new and used French oak barriques, and at this point in the wine’s evolution that oak component has become an accent note in a wine driven first and foremost by its crushed-stone minerality.
In the glass, Conferon-Cotetidot’s 2013 Vosne-Romanée “Les Suchots” is a deep, reflective ruby with hints of pink at the rim. The aromas are dark-fruited and woodsy: black cherry, black raspberry, a hint of black licorice and delicate spice, dried rose petal, underbrush, aged tea, crushed stones and turned earth. Medium-plus in body, the wine has a powerful structure, with enough tannin suggest decades more ahead if kept well. It’s almost a ‘Burgundy-meets-Barolo’ style, hearty and layered, one of those bottles where your last sip is the best. If you are enjoying a bottle now (highly recommended), decant it an hour before serving in Burgundy stems at around 60-65 degrees, but do try to find some space in your cellar for a few bottles because the true magic is a few years down the road. I think the real sweet spot for this wine is somewhere around the seven- or eight-year mark, with many years of prime drinking to follow. It also happens to be a perfect Burgundy to pull out during these winter months, to serve alongside
boeuf bourguignon or other cold-weather fare. Anything fatty and roasted will do. Enjoy!
