We do a great deal of comparing lesser-known vineyard sites to more-famous ones. The vineyard behind today’s wine—Marsannay’s “Les Longeroies”—carries no ‘official’ classification but compares favorably to many Premier Cru sites in neighboring Gevrey-Chambertin without commanding the same price. Especially as interpreted by rising-star talent Cyril Audoin (and in an epic vintage like 2014, no less), this red from one of the Côte de Nuits’ most northerly villages is an insider favorite—a vineyard designation well-worth knowing, ranking or no.
Audoin’s 2014 Marsannay “Les Longeroies” is more than just an insider gem for Burgundy aficionados, it’s a wine that confidently puts its village and vineyard in the spotlight, offering tremendous perfume, a round mouthfeel, and more power and aging potential than we have a right to expect at this price. Don’t anticipate seeing this on many shelves or websites—it’s only brought to the states by one boutique importer and luckily enough, they happen to be close friends of ours. Audoin is one of those lesser-known producers I always advise people to collect and hide away in their cellar. Not only do the wines drink well upon release, but at 5-7 years of age, they begin to peak and show another dimension of greatness. Audoin always outperforms at its price, but this 2014 is irresistible!
Marsannay—known as the “Golden Gate to the Côte de Nuits”—is pushing into Burgundy’s most northern limits and all of Red Burgundy’s coveted gems lead up to it. So why isn’t it home to any Premier Crus? Simple: While neighbouring communes were obtaining their appellations in the 1930s, Marsannay had no need to join the proverbial party because their popular wines—especially their lip-smacking rosés—were being snatched up by the local Dijonnais. No need to look for change when your wines are already successful! Consequently, they didn’t obtain their appellation until a half-century later—1987—which is the reason for Marsannay’s current landscape: growers that are now eager to prove their worth on a world stage. High quality wine at largely affordable prices? That’s right up our alley.
The first estate-bottled wine exited the domaine in 1972, thanks to Charles and Marie-Francoise. In 2000, they placed the family business in the capable hands of their son, Cyril. After enology school and years of hands-on experience in various vineyards around the world, this fifth-generation vigneron was champing at the bit to take over. Cyril has since increasingly focused on vineyard health, growing in a “lutte raisonnée” (reasoned fight) approach, emphasizing traditional techniques like plowing and organic farming save for emergencies. Cyril attributes a great deal of the estate’s progress to his father who, despite officially retiring in 2009, “is always out in the vineyards.”
“Les Longeroies” is a mid-slope vineyard that curves around a southeast-facing hill. The porous soils here are mostly clay with limestone and vines are an impressive 45 years of age. Their owned parcel is always harvested by hand and grapes sat on their skins (maceration) for two weeks. The wine aged in 20% new French oak for 12-18 months before being transferred into stainless steel tanks for an additional six months, allowing the wine to ‘relax.’ It was bottled both unfined and unfiltered.
In the glass, 2014 “Les Longeroies” exhibits a dark ruby core with slight pink hues leading out to the rim. The nose reveals classic Côte de Nuits notes—black cherry, red currant, pomegranate, rose hips, white tea, forest floor, crushed stone, wet fern, and slight baking spice. Despite Marsannay’s northern reaches, there is a bountiful amount of ripeness here and pronounced minerality stands out on both the nose and palate. The wine is medium-bodied and fine tannins lend to a rounded mouthfeel; there isn’t any unwanted grippiness here. You’ll also likely pick up on the earthy, ‘woodsy’ feel that is underpinned by a clean and pure casing of red and black fruit. Unlike most Premier Crus farther south, this ‘14 can be fully enjoyed right now after a 30-60 minute decant and will be performing at even greater levels in the next 3-5 years (while lasting past 2030). Pour into large Burgundy stems and pair it next to a traditional duck cassoulet; the combination is nearly unbeatable. Cheers!
