Today’s wine from Philippe Gavignet is precisely the kind of red Burgundy I want in my cellar—and I can make that happen at a remarkably affordable price because Gavignet’s name recognition has yet to catch up with the quality of his wines. Even with the legendary Burgundy doyenne Becky Wasserman now shopping his wares to a wider audience, this “modest” domaine and its soft-spoken proprietor still fly under the radar.
Which is great. We’ll take advantage of that as long as we can. Today’s 2013 perfectly encapsulates what Gavignet is all about: sourced from a well-placed, highly respected, Premier Cru “Les Chaboeufs” in Gavignet’s home base of Nuits-Saint-Georges, this wine’s genuine excellence makes itself known as soon as you put your nose in the glass. A wine of comparable quality and Premier Cru pedigree would likely cost twice as much if it came from Vosne-Romanée or Chambolle-Musigny. For me, that’s a call to action—as it should be for you. As with most of Gavignet’s wines, there isn’t a lot available, but we can offer up to six bottles per customer until our stock runs out. If you value cellar-worthy red Burgundy (and who doesn’t?), I encourage you to take your limit!
The Gavignet domaine, based in Nuits-Saint-Georges, dates to the 1930s and still boasts some vineyards planted way back then. Current proprietor Philippe (whose first vintage was 1979) farms roughly 10 hectares as sustainably as possible, eschewing chemical herbicides and pesticides and harvesting only by hand. His range of wines is focused almost exclusively on Nuits-St-Georges, where his holdings include not just “Les Chaboeufs” but two other N-S-G Premier Crus, “Les Bousselots” and “Les Pruliers.” Today’s wine, Les Chaboeufs, is from the southern end of the village, tucked into a narrow valley next to more-famous neighbors such as “Vaucrains” and “Les Saint-Georges.” Vine age in Gavignet’s one-hectare parcel ranges from 20 to 70 years, and it is reflected in the deep concentration and aromatic complexity of this wine.
Gavignet’s vineyards are all hand-harvested and grapes are completely destemmed before fermentation in stainless steel tanks using only ambient yeasts. As with his other Premier Crus, Les Chaboeufs was aged 16 months in 30% new French oak, but what this wine showcases more than anything else is the profound minerality of this Côte de Nuits terroir.
The 2013 is textbook Burgundy, and I can think of few better examples of why Burgundy lovers should not “sleep” on this vintage—it is immensely enjoyable now but also has many years of flattering evolution ahead of it. In the glass, it’s a bright ruby moving to garnet and pink at the rim, with highly perfumed aromas of black cherry, currant, raspberry, black tea, turned earth and underbrush. The pitch-perfect mix of Côte de Nuits structure and perfumed elegance is what sets it apart, and while it blossoms after about an hour in a decanter, I wouldn’t hestitate to lay it down for another 7-10 years—with plans to re-visit it periodically. Serve it at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems alongside your favorite game bird—quail, pheasant, squab…all will be beautifully complemented by this woodsy, evocative red. It’s the real deal! Cheers!