Let me start with this: I love sharing this style of wine with friends. When you have the complexity and freshness of classic Pinot Noir bolstered with perfect tension, California can nearly disguise itself amongst higher-priced Burgundy (with friendlier levels of ripeness) and top-of-the-line Willamette Valley. Bradley Brown of Big Basin Vineyards belongs to this surging coterie of producers that showcase traditional finesse with subtle power and concentration.
Bradley's 2015 “Lester Vineyard” bottling, which we’ve offered in previous vintages, retains the elegance and intense Pinot perfume I’ve come to expect, but offers an entirely new level of concentration that should serve to reel in drinkers of weightier reds (think Grand Cru Red Burgundy). To put Big Basin in my list of top California Pinot producers would not be an understatement; the quality they’re achieving is matched by only a few others and judging by their older library wines, this will hold up for years to come. Only 200 cases were produced and thanks to Bradley being a close friend, I was able to secure a small allocation to offer 3 bottles per person until we sell out.
The face of Pinot Noir is changing quickly across California, especially in cooler climates with coastal influences. High up on my list is the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, where you’ll find a range of climates, topographies, and soils. Prudy Foxx, original planter of the Lester Family Vineyard and one of California’s greatest viticulture consultants, describes the AVA as such: “Breathtaking vistas. Ocean and valley views. Lush forests. Majestic first-growth redwoods. Misty fog. Ocean breezes. Surf and sand. Mountain vineyards. This is the Santa Cruz Mountains.”
Though Bradley is equipped with a range of Pinot Noir bottlings, his most concentrated style often hails from the Lester Family Vineyard in Corralitos, just three miles from Monterey Bay. With this oceanic influence, the vineyard is blessed with the perfect balance of fog and sunshine, and with loam soils over sedimentary bedrock, this makes for an ideal Pinot Noir climate. As mentioned, the 2015 growing season came swift and loud, yielding only half of a typical harvest with compact clusters that held immensely concentrated juice. While the Old World charm is evident, there’s a layer of richness that emerges with this vintage. After harvesting via organic methods, Bradley and his team shuttled the grapes to their winery (built in 2003) and destemmed only 30% of the clusters. This whole cluster approach has been a huge success for Big Basin wines, and although not commonplace in America, this is similar to the methods of classic Burgundian producers. The wine then rested 15 months in French oak of various ages and was bottled unfined and unfiltered at the start of 2017.
The 2015 exhibits a dark ruby red core with hints of garnet, leading out to slight pink reflections on the rim. Just off the sight, you can expect the wine to deliver serious focus and concentration. The first smell delivers a variety of perfumed wild berries, including strawberry, huckleberry, goji berry, black raspberry, and black cherry. Following lockstep are secondary notes of orange oil, loose black tea, forest floor, wildflowers, crushed stone, dried rose petal, and exotic baking spices. For its youth, the palate has wonderful balance with an entry of ripe fruit that is accented with tart pomegranate and red cherry. With its fresh fruit and vibrancy, this is a joy to drink now, but I know Bradley’s wines well and they gracefully evolve with age; this one will keep well over the next 3-10 years. If consuming now, simply open the bottle an hour beforehand or give it a 15-20 minute (optional) decant if desired. Serve alongside this tender chicken thigh dish with pomegranates. Bon Appétit!