It’s not an exaggeration to say that Knebel makes the short list of top producers in Germany’s Mosel, a region many sommeliers consider the single most important Riesling terroir on earth. Branches of the Knebel family have been making wine in the renowned village of Winningen since the mid 1600s.
Today, this property encompasses a panorama of the area’s top sites—near-vertical walls of ever-crumbling slate, all (barely) held up by a dense and gravity-defying network of terraces. This unique and breathtaking setting produces truly world class (and DRY) Riesling, the best of which is equally well-suited for the table and cellar. While Knebel’s wines often command top dollar, we are elated to offer the family’s celebrated, Premier Cru-equivalent “Von Den Terrassen” at a jaw-droppingly low price today. This legendary name, elite real estate, and generous vintage are what makes this bottle a special find—but the value is what makes it a can’t-miss opportunity!
The extended Knebel clan has been producing wine in Winningen since 1643. The vineyards and cellars, as we currently know them, were established by Rheinhard and Beate Knebel in 1990 and today are overseen by their talented and indefatigable son, Matthias. Following its inception, Knebel rapidly built a reputation as a globally recognized destination for Riesling vinified not only in a rich, layered, late-harvest sweet style, but also in the style we are showcasing today: mouthwatering, exquisitely balanced, mineral-driven dry Riesling. The Knebel family’s dry wines originate almost entirely from four single vineyards: Grand Cru-equivalents “Uhlen” and “Röttgen,” along with close seconds “Brückstück” and “Hamm.”
Today’s “Von Den Terrassen” bottling is primarily a blend of Hamm (a vineyard known for its savor and spice) and Röttgen (beloved for it’s powerful fruit). 2013 was a historically small harvest, but one of exceptional power and well-defined acidity for Knebel. Mattias Knebel and his team hand-picked and sorted each cluster. Keep in mind these vineyards are so steep, they can only be accessed by rickety monorails. It is grueling, backbreaking labor which, especially in a vintage like 2013, produces very few cases of wine. Mattias ferments his wines in stainless steel tanks with no added yeasts. Knebel’s wines are pillars of purity and restraint in a region known for liberally “adjusting” its wines. The product of this legendary terroir and Mattias’ disciplined process is a range of dry Rieslings that compete with the finest in the world.
The 2013 Knebel “Von Den Terrassen” twinkles in the glass, with a steely green hue. From the get-go, this is a wine that exemplifies purity and balance. There are no loose stitches, no jagged edges and nothing that distracts from its perfect arc of flavor, quiet elegance and deftly interwoven aromatics. Subtle lime and grapefruit zest peek through a veil of white flowers and wild pennyroyal and mint. With air, classic dried spice aromas and more exotic fruit begin to emerge. This is a beautifully feminine and poised expression of Riesling from one of the variety’s defining terroirs. If enjoying today, I encourage you to decant for 30 minutes and serve at 50 degrees in a mid-size Bordeaux stems. If you have a spare hour sometime soon, I urge you to explore the exciting world of hand-pulled Chinese noodles, or
la mian. Nothing elevates a sizzling platter of homemade pork chow mein like these chewy and satisfying handmade creations. Today’s wine is a dream for global cuisine and I can’t think of a more enjoyable companion. Moreover, I want to stress that Knebel is known for producing epic, long-lived wines and this bottle is no exception. I won’t be cellaring it for decades, but it will continue to enjoy a peak drinking window for another 2-3 years and it would be criminal to write it off as a mere “drink now” table wine. On the contrary, this is serious Mosel Riesling with a comically low price tag. Cheers!
