If you’ve been paying close attention to our offers lately, you may notice that we’ve taken a shine to the 2007 vintage in Bordeaux. From the highest of the high end (Château Margaux) all the way down the line, I’m finding the wines of this under-rated vintage to be in an intriguing place right now—elegant, above all else, and ‘complete’ in a way that wasn’t anticipated back when these wines were first released.
I was particularly impressed with this value-priced ’07 from Château Moutin, a wine that has entered that “sweet spot” where youthful and mature characteristics are sharing the stage harmoniously. Bordeaux has given us countless affordable treats like this over the last year, and believe me—if they keep delivering this much value-for-dollar, we’ll keep offering them here. What a great opportunity this is to open up something tonight that’s impeccable and mature—ideally, it’d be every night, and at this price that might actually be possible!
Château Moutin is one of a diverse range of holdings managed by the Darriet family, whose roots in Bordeaux go back to the late-18th century. Their original property was in Loupiac, where they made botrytis-affected, fortified sweet wines from Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. In the intervening years, the family has acquired several small properties on either side of the Gironde River in southern Bordeaux, including Château Moutin in the village of Portets—the heart of the Graves AOC. Soils are, as the appellation name reflects, predominantly comprised of deep gravel, and the varietal mix in Moutin’s three hectares of red-wine vineyards (and the wine itself) is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Median age of the vines is 50 years, which shows in the dense concentration of this wine; among its many charms is a stony, mineral savor that lingers on the finish.
Brother-sister team Jean-Christophe Darriet and Sandrine Darriet-Froléon run their family firm with an eye toward sustainability, which has been a priority for Vignobles Darriet since the 1950s (they currently have a ‘Level 3’ sustainability certification from the EU; they plow vineyards to control weeds and eschew the use of any synthetic pesticides or fertilizers). The 2007 Graves Rouge was aged nearly two years in a mix of new and used French oak barriques, followed by two additional years in bottle before its release.
In the glass, its core is a concentrated, dark garnet with slight orange reflections at the rim. The nose is wonderfully classy and refined, with notes of dried black cherry, red and black currants, dried violet, dried herbs, tobacco leaf, pencil lead, exotic spice, and crushed gravel. Medium-plus in body and blessed with Merlot’s supple tannins, it initially makes a lush impression that transitions into an elegant and mineral-driven finish. There’s no excess weight here and, after a decade, this wine still has some time left to continue aging in a positive direction. 2007s have developed quicker than other vintages, which makes it such a pleasure to drink today. It has leaped into its drinking window and should remain there over the next 5-7 years. If you’re enjoying a bottle now, decant about 30-45 minutes before service in Bordeaux stems. This would be a fantastic
steak au poivre wine—but then again, it’d be fantastic with any number of dishes. Don’t miss it!