The micro-production wines of brothers Benoit and Arnaud Ente (Arnaud worked at Coche-Dury and now produces some of Meursault’s finest wines under his own label) quietly disappear into the cellars of knowing collectors around the world each year. Today, we are showcasing Benoit, whose profoundly complex style of Puligny shows an immense concentration so rarely witnessed.
His wines convey terroir and have a vibrant energy that electrifies the palate from start to finish (a style compared to Pierre Yves-Colin Morey, Roulot and Coche-Dury). If you examine a map of Puligny, you’ll see the prestigious company surrounding the plot of “Clos de la Truffière”: “Les Folatières,” “Champ Gain,” “La Garenne”...essentially, some of the finest Premier Cru sites Puligny- Montrachet can offer. If you’re a lover of serious white Burgundy with precision and an advocate for passionate winemakers, this should certainly be a part of your collection, big or small. It’s rare, classic, impeccable; a true collector’s item. Do yourself a favor and introduce yourself to Benoit Ente (if you’re already a fan, you’ve likely proceeded to the cart already). Due to extremely small quantities we are only able to offer up to 3 bottles per customer until it sells out. (Note: Please make sure to pay attention to the serving instructions because this wine needs a few hours of air before consuming for best results).
Twenty-seven years ago, Benoit Ente and his aunt assumed control over his grandfather's coveted plots scattered about Puligny-Montrachet and surrounding appellations. For the first seven years, the pair acted as growers, selling off grapes to négociants. After 1997, he and his aunt divvied up their plots, split apart, and Benoit started producing his very own wines. For 16 years, he made wines from just a handful of acres, experimenting with new styles along the way. Ironically, he found his calling during the abysmal growing year of 2003. It was sticky hot and many wines produced were molasses-rich alcohol bombs. This triggered him to adapt a winemaking style that focused on precision and focus while keeping a dense core of concentration. After his aunt hung up her hat in 2013, the plots he once worked on were handed back to him, including these tiny old vine plots of “Clos de la Truffière” which are over 60 years of age. Today, he manages 20 unique plots that total a hair under 15 acres.
Puligny-Montrachet is considered to be one of the finest white wine regions in the world. Chock-full of Grand and Premier Crus and wedged between the renowned appellations of Chassagne-Montrachet and Meursault, it’s tough to argue any differently. Today’s interest, Premier Cru “La Truffière” (historically rich in truffles), sits at one of the highest elevations in the appellation, overlooking most vineyards as it rises up to the charming hamlet of Blagny. Here, you’ll find vines buried in limestone-based soils that push past 1000 feet in elevation, which allows for higher acids levels than its lower-lying neighbors. Benoit Ente chose two miniscule plots for his “Clos de La Truffière” (clos = enclosed vineyard) that are both surrounded by murgers, or squat stone walls. His team follows a lutte raisonée (reasoned struggle) philosophy of farming as organically as nature allows and harvests by hand. The wine ferments and ages one year in a combination of (mostly) French oak and vats. As years pass, he has steadily decreased his battonage regimen, as well as the percentage of new oak used. After 12 months have passed, he creates the final blend from his two “La Truffière” plots and allows for six additional months of aging. It is bottled unfiltered.
In the glass, the 2014 “Clos de la Truffière” flaunts a pale golden core with tinted shades of green on the rim. Aromas are intense and concentrated with highly perfumed green pear, yellow apple peel, toasted hazelnut, white truffle, crushed white stones, honey, oyster shells, acacia flowers, and exotic spices. On the palate, the wine is medium-plus bodied and incredibly dense. It’s one of the most concentrated white Burgundies you’ll come across that’s juxtaposed with an incredible balance of sheer freshness, power and precision. The play of texture-rich body and minerality here is quite an experience, so much so, I’ve decided to give this wine its very own PSA: it’s not meant to pop and pour. I highly recommend allowing it a few hours of oxygen. The wine changes every minute, revealing more and more as time goes on, so please give it time. Either pop the cork the morning of and decant an hour before dinner, or fully decant 2-3 hours before serving (or longer). As mentioned, this is a wine for collecting, but is a treat in its youth if given enough air. It’s a beauty that will hit full stride around seven years of age. If cellared correctly, like many choose to do with Ente’s wines, it will keep for 15-20 years, easily. Whenever you choose to open a bottle, pair it with some rich scallops sautéed in brown butter. Total decadence. Enjoy!
