Ata Rangi, Martinborough Pinot Noir, “Crimson”
Other, New Zealand 2016 (750mL)
Regular price$29.00
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Ata Rangi, Martinborough Pinot Noir, “Crimson”
It’s not news to Pinot Noir lovers that New Zealand has a few appellations capable of producing world-class Pinot Noir. Central Otago, on the south island and home to the most southerly (as in, close to Antarctica southern) vineyards in the world, is the best known. But there’s also Wairarapa, on the north island, and its sub-zone of Martinborough—whose microclimate is compared to Burgundy’s and whose place on the international wine stage owes a lot to Clive Paton of the world-renowned Ata Rangi, producer of today’s exceptional Pinot Noir value.
With one of the larger diurnal shifts (day-to-night temperature swings) on the island; a dry climate; and cool, sweeping maritime winds, Martinborough is a certifiable utopia for low-yielding, concentrated Pinot Noir. Yet whereas Central Otago Pinots have more worldwide recognition (and, often, more prohibitive prices as a result), Martinborough is relatively unsung and, in the case of this 2016 “Crimson” Pinot Noir, undervalued. I’ve said repeatedly that Oregon’s Willamette Valley delivers the best value-for-dollar Pinots on the planet, and while I’m not ready to amend that just yet, Ata Rangi and a few other top producers have put Martinborough very much on my radar. Hinting at both Burgundy and Oregon while maintaining its own unique voice, this is one of the more exciting Pinot Noir values I’ve come across in a long while.
With one of the larger diurnal shifts (day-to-night temperature swings) on the island; a dry climate; and cool, sweeping maritime winds, Martinborough is a certifiable utopia for low-yielding, concentrated Pinot Noir. Yet whereas Central Otago Pinots have more worldwide recognition (and, often, more prohibitive prices as a result), Martinborough is relatively unsung and, in the case of this 2016 “Crimson” Pinot Noir, undervalued. I’ve said repeatedly that Oregon’s Willamette Valley delivers the best value-for-dollar Pinots on the planet, and while I’m not ready to amend that just yet, Ata Rangi and a few other top producers have put Martinborough very much on my radar. Hinting at both Burgundy and Oregon while maintaining its own unique voice, this is one of the more exciting Pinot Noir values I’ve come across in a long while.
Ata Rangi directly translates to “morning sky” and the small family team likens their philosophy to a new beginning, which is essentially what Clive Paton had in 1980. Martinborough was completely devoid of vines at the time and, backed by his now-wife, his sister, and a handful of locals, Paton was able to plant vines and launch his dream. After many years of weathering both climatic and financial woes (he initially sold cover crops to stay afloat), Ata Rangi became a successful reality. Today, they create wine on a much larger scale, but they haven’t strayed an inch from the original philosophy and passion it took to get them there. Clive is also a proactive environmentalist and he donates a portion of each “Crimson” bottle to Project Crimson, a charitable conservation trust formed over 25 years ago in order to preserve the dwindling population of Rata and Pohutukawa trees.
For their “Crimson” bottling they source younger vines of different Pinot Noir clones like Dijon, Pommard, and Abel (aka Gumboot). I’m sure most of you recognize the first two, but Abel may come as unfamiliar...Word is that, in the 1970s, a vine cutting from Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanée-Conti was smuggled inside a gumboot (rubber boot) and confiscated at Auckland customs. A man named Malcolm Abel immediately took the precious cargo to a viticulture facility and was granted a few cuttings later on. After befriending Malcolm soon after, Clive Paton was gifted an offspring of the cutting and, as they say, the rest is history.
Ata Rangi is 100% certified organic. Instead of insecticides, predatory wasps are used, and, to promote healthy soils, large batches of compost are perpetually made. Since the vineyards are clustered together, the majority of them are rooted in a mixture of loam and loose alluvial soils. Nearly half of Ata Rangi’s vines are estate-owned and all are within walking distance of their winery. Due to the cooler climate, yields are considerably (and naturally) lower than the Pinot Noir average, roughly half as much. After hand harvesting, barrel-fermentation is triggered by indigenous yeasts and the wine ages in French oak (20% new) for nine months.
The 2016 “Crimson” shows a very dark ruby shade that leads out to brilliant crimson and pink hues. The perfumed nose rushes forward with black cherry, wild strawberry, red plum, wild raspberry, fresh violet, tobacco leaf, wet rock, wild shrub, and slight spice. On the palate, the entry is supple and smooth with incredibly soft tannins, and the wine finishes medium-plus bodied with a subtle herbaceousness. The growing season of 2016 was mild with a cool, dry month leading up to harvest, resulting in freshness and a slight structured edge that strengthens Pinot Noir’s thin-skinned profile. That, along with a rich core of ripe, youthful fruit, leads me to believe this wine will impress over the next 5-7 years. Drinking now, however, is delicious after a 30-minute decant. Use large Burgundy stems and serve around 60 degrees alongside this gamy dish with a unique sweet sauce twist.
