Acquiring even a single bottle of a wine sourced direct from the cold cellars of a legendary château makes my heart skip a beat. Pavillon Rouge du Margaux is arguably the most iconic ‘second’ label in Bordeaux, and the bottles of 82’ we received haven’t moved from their cellars since being bottled in 1984.
But as excited as I am to offer it, a caveat: this is the smallest allocation we’ve ever offered here on SommSelect. I apologize in advance for the limited quantity, but I did everything imaginable just to secure this minuscule amount. So, although we can only offer a single bottle per customer, I’m excited to hand them out. At 35 years old, it’s a supremely elegant Bordeaux with velvet tannins and impeccable balance. It’s the epitome of “fine and rare,” and drinking exquisitely now. Act fast, as it will disappear almost instantly.
Vines have been planted at Château Margaux since the 16th century, but the estate can trace its roots all the way back to the 1100s. As with most chateaux, ownership has changed hands numerous times, but the estate and surrounding vineyards have been largely untouched for centuries. Despite major renovations over the past few years, stepping onto the property of Château Margaux still feels old-school. They are even one of few in the region that still employ an in-house cooper, who can create up to three barrels per day. Enough to satisfy demand? No, but indispensable when considering their way of life. The grapes for “Pavillon Rouge” are picked from younger vines on the property that will one day be used for their Grand Vin (the ’82 vintage of which is currently hovering around $1,100). After being harvested by hand, a classic barrel fermentation was implemented, followed by 18-24 months of aging in new French oak. The final blend was fined with egg-white before bottling.
In the glass, the wine reveals a concentrated garnet-red core quickly leading out to an orange-bricked rim. The nose oozes charm and elegance—exactly what you’d expect from high-end, developed Bordeaux. Dried fruits of currant and cherry shine alongside vintage leather, cedar, tobacco leaf, dried mint, and cigar box. Thanks to the perfect vintage of 1982, this wine is still chugging along at a conservative pace, the acidity still prominent and the tannins oh-so-soft. Although in its peak now, the structure and complexity leads me to believe it can evolve in a positive direction for another 5-10 years if shuttled right back into the cellar. For those planning on enjoying soon, make sure to stand the bottle upright at least 24 hours before consuming. When opening, be mindful of the cork’s integrity and pull gently, not applying too much pressure; a two-pronged Ah-So is the preferred tool here. Decant in a well-lit area, stopping just before the smoke, or onset of sediment, arrives. Let it breathe for 15-30 minutes and consume the entirety of the bottle within the first couple hours to enjoy its delicate flavors and aromas. Since you treated yourself with the wine, don’t short yourself on the pairing! While you prep the attached lamb dish, add on a side of fondant potatoes with duck fat (don’t be shy with it). Enjoy this magnificent treat of food and wine. Cheers!