If you’ve been a subscriber for a while, one thing has probably become pretty clear by now: If it’s a 2014 white from Jean-Marc Morey, we’re going to offer it. When this Chassagne-Montrachet became available, we eagerly waved it in, and while we knew very well what to expect, it still over-delivered.
Sourced from the Premier Cru vineyard “Les Chenevottes,” a site at the northern end of Chassagne near the border with Puligny, this wine’s “wow effect” is plain for all to see—as has been the case with every Morey 2014 we’ve tasted. Tantalizingly textured and drinking beautifully now, this will continue to be a showstopper for many years to come.
In the glass, Morey’s 2014 “Les Chenevottes” is a deep yellow-gold extending to the rim, with powerful aromas of yellow apple, pear, white peach, raw hazelnut, cream, white flowers, and crushed stones. As with the 2014 Bâtard-Montrachet, this wine manages to be both viscous and full-bodied but also lifted and energetic, with fresh acidity and delicate minerality keeping things lively all the way through the long, aromatic finish. Give it about 30 minutes of air in a decanter and serve it at 50-55 degrees in large Burgundy stems—you really couldn’t ask for more in a white Burgundy, and can’t wait to see what 5-7 more years of bottle age do to this wine. It is a ‘whole-body’ wine experience and deserving of a saucy, French-ified piece of deliciousness to go with it. Check it out with the classic blanquette de veau in the attached recipe. That’s really good living. Enjoy!