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Edmond Monnot & Fils, Maranges 1er Cru, “Clos de la Boutière,” Vieilles Vignes

Burgundy, France 2008 (750mL)
$34.00
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Fruit
Earth
Body
Tannin
Acid
Alcohol
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Edmond Monnot & Fils, Maranges 1er Cru, “Clos de la Boutière,” Vieilles Vignes

There is a fine line between ‘mature’ and ‘drinkable’—especially in Burgundy. And while recent vintages like 2009 and 2010 have been labeled as blockbuster years, many seem to overlook the underlying meaning of an exceptional vintage: the wine’s future.
These two vintages have the ability to go a full twelve rounds with raised fists, but only if you have the discipline of cellaring—which is much easier said than done. For many people, consuming upon purchase is second nature. Sure, it may be drinkable, but it still hasn’t matured, so we seek out the middle ground by finding a vintage that isn’t built for prolonged aging, but rather, one that has already entered its drinking window. With that in mind, I revisited a previous offering from this producer, Edmond Monnot. Their 2013 bottling has me utterly captivated (the case in my cellar has nearly vanished), so while I impatiently wait for the remaining bottles to develop, I decided to seek out one of his older gems in its proverbial “sweet spot.” This is a great opportunity to drink a mature, real-deal red Burgundy at a very affordable price—not something that comes along very often!
Although Edmond Monnot retired after a long career of winemaking in 2007, his sons were there to take the reins, making the transition seamless. Dating to 1920, the domaine owns just over 20 acres of prime vineyards—the majority of their sites are Premier Cru. When the Côte de Beaune comes to mind, you first think of world-class whites, and for reds, Volnay or Pommard undoubtedly enter the conversation. But the wines from the most southern Côte de Beaune village of Maranges are relatively unfamiliar to the U.S. market (maybe to our benefit), allowing for a price-to-quality ratio that is nearly unrivaled in Burgundy.
 
“Clos de la Boutière” is owned outright by the extended Monnot family and this bottling comes from this 3.5-acre, mid-slope plot, where vines average 55 years of age (some are much older). The soil here is the classic clay-limestone blend, rich in minerals. Vines are tended in lutte raisonée fashion (they are adamant about leaving them untouched unless absolutely necessary) and all fruit was hand-harvested and carefully sorted. The fruit macerated for a three-week period with the occasional punch-down and subsequently aged for 18 months in Allier oak (10% new). After an additional six months in stainless steel vats, the wine was bottled unfiltered and, up until the time of my inquiry, the bottles went untouched in his cellars.  

In the glass, Monnot’s 2008 “Clos de la Boutière” reveals a concentrated dark ruby core leading out to brick orange and garnet hues on the rim. On the nose, this wine exudes classic and mature old-school Burgundy, firing off dried red fruits of raspberry, cherry and plum, followed by turned earth, orange peel, tea leaves, mushroom and leather. The palate complements the nose, adding notes of dried purple flowers and an additional dark-fruited layer of dried black cherry and pomegranate. This ’08 will age gracefully over the next 3-5 years, but I can happily say it doesn’t demand any additional cellaring; it is in its heyday. I recommend popping the cork 10 minutes before serving at 60 degrees in large Burgundy stems. Drink within 60 minutes to enjoy the wine at its best. Hoard all you can, but above all, enjoy.
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Country
France
Region
Burgundy
Sub-Region
FranceMaranges Premier Cru
Soil
Limestone & Clay
Farming
'Lutte Raisonée'
Blend
Pinot Noir 100%
Alcohol
13.0
OAK
10% New French
TEMP.
60-65
Glassware
Burgundy Stems
Drinking
Now-2020
Decanting
30 Minutes
Pairing
Herb-Roasted Pork Loin

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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