When you have once-in-a-lifetime vintages, it’s hard not to sound like a broken record. I’m sure everyone now knows, whether they are wine enthusiasts or not, how perfect the Bordeaux growing season of 2005 was. Critics extolled it over megaphones on mountaintops, and the record prices certainly reflected it—they had never been higher at the time.
Another rarity, which is often overlooked in expansive regions, was the fact that grape quality was consistent throughout Bordeaux. This made 2005 a certifiable steal for regional wines, like Château Peyrabon in Haut-Médoc. They are also a Cru Bourgeois, which is a designation annually reviewed by an overseeing board who puts each estate through a three-stage quality process (the châteaux from the 1855 Classification don’t undergo any such quality control). Keeping all this in mind, we’re looking at a under $30 superstar that has 12 years of age under its belt. When dipping your nose in the glass or swishing around a mouthful, this is everything you should expect—and respect—in a classy, mature Bordeaux. Its developed fruits and earthy tones lead into a refreshing, softly textured palate, placing it right in its peak drinking window. This is the epitome of Bordeaux and if you like anything French, better yet, anything “Old World,” this is a must-purchase.
Château Peyrabon is one of those iconic 250+ year old estates who have been churning out quality wines for generations. They even fought to have their name added to the 1855 Bordeaux Classification since their bottles were, at the time, fetching prices that matched and even surpassed some classified châteaux. Despite being unsuccessful, they marched through subsequent generations proving they could offer classic Bordeaux at value-driven prices. In 1998, fine wine merchant Patrick Bernard (his brother runs Domaine de Chevalier) purchased Château Peyrabon and pumped in copious amounts of capital for major renovation. A large portion of vines were replanted, the château was spruced up, the cellar was modernized; essentially an estate overhaul to bring it back to its former prestige. Most importantly, however, their classic winemaking practices were left untouched.
The vineyard holdings for Château Peyrabon are quite unique—although most are located in the Haut-Médoc, they cozy up to the esteemed Pauillac AOC and a small portion extends into it (they bottle a separate wine under this designation). Soils here vary from gravel to sand to clay. The vineyard is planted mostly to Cabernet Sauvignon, followed by Merlot and smatterings of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot which were harvested at extremely ripe and healthy levels in 2005. In the winery, the juice fermented in a mixture of concrete and stainless steel tanks. Following that, it rested in French oak (25% new) for 14 months; a recipe that resulted in a structured and ripe wine without having any overbearing qualities.
In the glass, 2005 Château Peyrabon exhibits a concentrated dark garnet red core leading out to a light garnet-orange rim. As I write these notes, a glass of this wine is within reaching distance (I couldn’t stop myself from opening another bottle) and it’s revealing an elegant nose full of red and black currant, black plum, preserved black cherry, dried flowers, damp clay, cedar, dried tobacco, leather and cigar box. The palate is soft with a velvety mouthfeel that shows impressive structure. The wine is at its absolute peak now and should continue to stick with it over the next 3-5 years if kept properly. I recommend a pop and pour, allowing the wine to open up in a large Bordeaux stem for 15-20 minutes. If decanting to shed sediment, consume within the first few hours. The mature, savory flavors, combined with the still-vibrant acidity, would make this a great choice for some homemade Peking duck—well worth the effort, if you ask me. Cheers!