When a big-name wine family makes a foray into a lesser-known region, it pays—usually handsomely—to take notice. I’m thinking, for example, of the Lafon family in Burgundy venturing south of their base in Meursault into the less-expensive precincts of the Mâcon—and the exceptional value-for-dollar those Mâcon wines deliver. Today’s wine is the product of a similarly prestigious flag-planting in a lesser-known region, in this case the Côtes de Castillon appellation on Bordeaux’s right bank.
The best sites in the Côtes de Castillon occupy the same clay/limestone plateau as some of the greatest properties in neighboring Saint-Émilion, yet, given French wine’s hierarchical leanings, Côtes de Castillon remains an ‘outer-borough’ designation in terms of recognition and price. It has become one of our most reliable sources of over-achieving wines, as exemplified by this stellar 2002 bottling from Clos Lunelles—part of an impressive portfolio of Bordeaux properties (including the famed Château Pavie) owned by the Perse family. This 15-year-old red, now entering its peak drinking window, was one of our most exciting acquisitions during our buying trip to Bordeaux last year; its combination of perfect, direct-from-the-château provenance and shockingly low price is simply impossible to beat. There’s no need to wait: You can pop the cork on this mature, complex, pedigreed Bordeaux tonight at a negligible cost. Needless to say, I’d suggest taking more than one!
The tentacles of Vignobles Perse, the Perse family firm, reach into some serious Right Bank real estate. Gérard Perse came onto the Bordeaux scene in 1993 and quickly made a name for himself after acquiring Château Monbousquet, which has since been elevated to Premier Grand Cru Classé B. A few years later, Château Pavie-Decesse and the famed Château Pavie, now a Premier Grand Cru Classé A (only four châteaux hold this title), were purchased. In 2001, Clos Lunelle was acquired—today’s value-driven label—and the purchase of Château Bellevue Mondotte—another Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé—soon followed.
Gérard and his wife, Chantal Perse, are true visionaries. They have tirelessly worked for 25 years to improve the quality and reputation of all their holdings—despite them already being highly regarded. Yields were curtailed, mass renovations were made, white wines were introduced (a first for Saint-Émilion), vines were replanted...you get the idea. Of course, visionaries and backlash go hand in hand, and they have received their fair share, but the family has stubbornly stayed the course. Top-quality wine will always be Gérard’s destination, and as long as Clos Lunelles remains in his hands, you can expect a killer bottle of wine.
Côtes de Castillon abuts the eastern border of Saint-Émilion. The nine hectares of old vines for Clos Lunelles are dug deep in a clay-limestone slope of Sainte-Colombe. Just a 15-minute drive to Château Pavie, this is an extension of Saint-Émilion’s limestone plateau. Geologically speaking, their soils and climates are nearly identical. The vineyard, averaging 36 years of age, is largely planted to Merlot, with equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc comprising the remainder. As mentioned, yields have been drastically lowered—around 20 hectolitres per hectare—compare that to the average yield of 2016 Bordeaux which weighed in at 52. Grapes were hand harvested and indigenous yeasts initiated fermentation in concrete vats. The final blend for 2002 was 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, with malolactic fermentation carried out in barrel. The wine saw 18-24 months of aging in 60% new French oak and was racked a minimum of six times (racking is a decanting from one vessel to another, a process which clarifies the wine by separating it from its spent yeasts and prevents the development of 'off' flavors). It was bottled unfined and unfiltered.
In the glass, this 2002 shows its maturity with a pale garnet red center moving to heavy brick orange hues. The developed aromatics reveal preserved plum, dried cherry, red currant, sandalwood, dried leaves and mushroom, tobacco leaf, vintage leather, anise, cigar box, and wet clay. On the palate, the wine is pushing medium-plus bodied, but it is largely masked by its soft and elegance style. It’s truly a wonderfully-aged Right Bank Bordeaux that is performing at levels that shocked all of us upon tasting. Everything here has integrated: the fruit, earth, tannins and acidity. That said, it is at its peak now and doesn’t require any further aging—this should be enjoyed over the next year or two. I recommend a quick decant to shed sediment and then allow the wine to open up in large Bordeaux stems. Don’t let oxygen hit this for too long—try drinking it within the first hour or so in order to catch all of its nuances. As you all know, mature Bordeaux works with a variety of tender dishes, but a medium-rare filet mignon sounds like a winner to me. If you’re really going all-out, pick up some Périgord black truffle and whip up a batch of mashed potatoes alongside your filet. Above all, enjoy!
