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Domaine Vacheron, Sancerre Blanc “Chambrates”

Loire Valley, France 2014 (750mL)
$50.00
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Domaine Vacheron, Sancerre Blanc “Chambrates”

In the same way that Merlot became a ‘brand’ unto itself, Sauvignon Blanc has reached a level of mainstream acceptance—as in, “I’ll have a glass of Sauvignon Blanc”—that may occasionally do a disservice to its more serious expressions.
ine lists are full of overblown, cocktail-y styles of Sauvignon Blanc because people love them, and even Sancerre, Sauvignon Blanc’s spiritual home, sees its wines relegated to bistro-pour status, perfect for lunchtime salads al fresco but not for any more serious contemplation. One sip of Vacheron’s 2014 “Chambrates,” a single-vineyard Sancerre of utmost seriousness, obliterates any doubts about Sauvignon Blanc’s potential for greatness. This is a powerful, mineral white with aging potential to rival any white Burgundy, or German Riesling, or any other world-class white you’d be inclined to lay down. If you’ve been a subscriber for a while, this should come as little surprise: Our admiration for Domaine Vacheron, which does everything well, is considerable to say the least. This is one of Sancerre’s top properties, if not the top, and at one point or another, we’ve offered practically every wine they make. Grab some “Chambrates” for your cellar, and rest assured that decades of enjoyment await you.
The terroir of the Sancerre appellation brings together some of the Kimmeridgian limestone so prized in Chablis with a band of silex (flint) that infuses many wines with a smoky, savory quality. “Chambrates” is one of several soil-specific, single-vineyard wines produced at Vacheron; the vineyard is one of several planted in limestone soils mixed with red clay, and is generally credited with producing richer wines with an ample fruit component to balance the oyster-shell minerality. The south-facing site is planted on a plateau at about 350 meters elevation, with vines ranging from 15 to 25 years of age.

As always, a little refresher on the impeccable credentials of Vacheron are in order: Cousins Jean-Dominique and Jean-Laurent Vacheron are third-generation proprietors of an estate that was founded in 1900; it has since grown to encompass about 50 hectares of vineyards in Sancerre’s choicest spots, and, since the early 2000s, those vineyards have been a model of sustainable farming—the Vacherons have attained organic and biodynamic certifications (from Demeter) for their wines, and not surprisingly, everything in the production process is done by hand. The “Chambrates” bottling is fermented on indigenous yeasts in tank, then aged for about 10 months in used oak foudre (larger vats) and tonneaux barrels.

There’s serious richness, but also serious mineral grip, in this stunning 2014: In the glass it’s a classic pale straw-gold with silver/green reflections at the rim, with a nose that leads with a powerful blast of citrus fruits followed by lemon curd, white peach, freshly cut hay, white pepper, ginger, and crushed stones. If you don’t believe in the idea of “mineral uptake”—that vines can deposit minerals from the earth into the juice of their grapes—this wine will change your mind. It is broad and textured for a young Sancerre, but it is clear that this is a wine to lay down for a while—I have no doubt that it will age 20+ years with ease, becoming smokier, more tropical, and more luscious with time. Right now, it is in the firm grip of its acidity and minerality and needs about 60 minutes in a decanter to reveal more of itself. Serve it in large Bordeaux stems at 50-55 degrees and pair it with a beautiful, rich piece of fish like halibut or turbot. This is opulent, powerful, “collectible” white wine. But I said that already. Enjoy!
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Country
France
Region
Loire Valley
Sub-Region
FranceSancerre
Soil
Limestone & Red Clay
Farming
Certified Organic & Biodynamic
Blend
Sauvignon Blanc
Alcohol
13.0
OAK
Used French Oak Vats
TEMP.
50-55
Glassware
All-Purpose Whites or Bordeaux Stems
Drinking
Now-2030
Decanting
60 Minutes
Pairing
Halibut w/ Leeks, Coriander & Lemon

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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