Loire Valley Chenin Blanc is most definitely a “sommelier wine.” Ask any of my colleagues what kinds of wines they order when they’re spending their own money, and Loire Chenin—along with other somm-beloved categories like German Riesling and Cru Beaujolais—will be right at the top of the list.
Why? Because the level of complexity for the price, as exemplified by this wine from Domaine des Hauts-Baigneux, is nearly unparalleled. Yet even with all that sommelier love directed its way (Master Sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier, a Loire Valley native, has built a career around it), Loire Valley Chenin hasn’t yet captured the mainstream audience that some of those other “pet” wines—like German Riesling—have. Upon tasting this 2015 from the lesser-known appellation Azay-le-Rideau, two thoughts immediately popped into my head: (1) that this wine is seriously delicious; and (2) that we need to offer more Chenin here, so we can all make it a more-regular member of our white-wine rotation. It gives you all the structure and minerality of white Burgundy, with a more exotic, saturated fruit component. Yes, some “sommelier” wines are often more weird than good, but this isn’t one of them: It’s the first Loire Valley Chenin we’ve offered in a while, but I assure you it won’t be the last. Who doesn’t want luscious, age-worthy, world-class white wine at an affordable price?
Chenin Blanc is grown in various parts of the world, but thrives in the cool climates of the Loire Valley. Sommeliers get a thrill offering it to white Burgundy drinkers, as it is slightly lesser-known, consistently over-delivers, and is often half the price. Chenin Blanc ranges in styles and flavor profiles, from dry to off-dry, sparkling to still. It is incredibly unique and complex, with powerful aromatics like chamomile and honeysuckle, balanced by powerful acidity and bracing minerality. It’s versatility gives you the chance to pair it with a variety of dishes. The wines possess the sort of tension that no matter how much weight you have in the glass, it cleans up beautifully on the palate. It is a unique experience that is unlike any other wine in the world. If you are new to the variety, this small-production expression from Hauts-Baigneux is the perfect place to start.
Hauts-Baigneux is the project partnering longtime friends Nicolas Grosbois and Philippe Mesnier, developed with the goal of restoring Azay-le-Rideau’s reputation as one of Chenin Blanc’s great appellations. Nicolas Grosbois is a third-generation winemaker at his family’s estate in Chinon, where his family has been making Cabernet Franc under the Grosbois label since 1820. With the urge to make a white wine, Nicolas and Philippe set to the Azay-le-Rideau appellation in Touraine to seek out Chenin Blanc vineyards. Since 2013 they have been organically farming 12 hectares of vines on silex—a flint- and sand-based soil type found primarily in the Loire Valley formed from a mixture of clay, limestone and silica. Chenin from the Azay-le-Rideau takes on a smoky, flinty expression that’s completely different from the Touraine’s surrounding appellations of Vouvray and Montlouis. The wines of the Azay can age for years, or are happy to be consumed right away.
The 2015 Hauts-Baigneux Azay-le-Rideau “Blanc Chenin” is 100% Chenin Blanc, farmed organically, from 30- to 60-year-old vines. It is hand-harvested and fermented with natural yeast. It spends 18 months on the lees for extra texture and is aged in concrete eggs and barrels. The nose encapsulates all the aspects of Chenin Blanc without any of the oxidative traits that drag some of these wines down. It is incredibly complex, with aromatics of chamomile, honey, yellow apple, quince, and yellow flowers. The palate is fresh, with white and yellow flowers, beeswax, meyer lemon, a hint of crushed oyster shell and chalk, all balanced out by a creamy, leesy mouthfeel and excellent acidity. Decant this wine for an hour, allowing it to come up to about 50-55 degrees, and don’t hesitate to lay some bottles down: it will age gracefully for 5-10 years with ease, as its firm acid/mineral backbone will make immediately clear. The Loire Valley is known as the “garden of France” thanks to its dense concentration of vineyard, orchards, and farms, and the combination of lush fruit and bracing acid in a Chenin like this one makes it a great wine for savory recipes that incorporate fruit. The attached Thai-style preparation should be an absolute knockout with this wine. Enjoy!
