Saint-Joseph is a gem of region: It serves as the west-bank backbone of the Rhône River and produces wines priced at mere fractions of nearby Syrah heavyweights Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie. Without a doubt, the very best bottlings—like this one from Domaine de Gouye—far exceed the entry-level wines from the great regions just mentioned.
However, I will transparently say that all Saint-Joseph is not created equal: The appellation was extended to nearly 40 miles in length in 1969, prompting total vineyard acreage to jump from 240 to 2,900 overnight. The result, unavoidably so, has allowed for the inclusion of ill-placed vineyards that create thin, uninspired wines. But when you get down to the nitty-gritty and uncover the best areas within Saint-Joseph, you’ll be rewarded with a serious, approachable Syrah unafraid to compare itself with the greats of Northern Rhône. The absolute best wine-producing towns lie to the southern part of Saint-Joseph, just across the river from Hermitage. One of these towns, Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, is where the rustic Domaine de Gouye resides. Third-generation Philippe Desbos of Domaine de Gouye oozes old-school French authenticity. You’ll find him tilling the vineyards behind a horse, punching down grapes by foot, and using a hand-turned vertical press built in 1886. We don’t have a lot of his 2015 Saint-Joseph to offer, but offering this kind of soulful, traditionally styled wine is why we do this.
At the center of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, you’ll find yourself amongst the stone buildings of the past. The elevation here is about 400 feet, but heading just outside of town and 600 feet up the abutting hillside will land you at Domaine de Gouye. This is prime territory for the best expressions of Syrah, thanks to high elevations and soils that are largely granitic with patches of limestone—far superior to the clayey soils found at the base of the hills.
Saint-Joseph comes from a south-facing, seven-acre plot of 50-year-old vines that surrounds the homestead of Philippe and his wife, Sylvie. Along with the help of his plow horse, Ramses, they till the vineyard rows and follow sustainable practices until harvesting by hand. After grapes are sorted and foot-trod, the ancient wood and block press is put into use. Following extraction, indigenous yeasts trigger a whole-cluster fermentation and then the wine is laid to rest in old, neutral French oak barrels for 16 months. Upon maturity, the wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered.
In the glass, the wine’s core shows off a highly concentrated dark purple with magenta hues leading out to the edge. Dipping your nose in the glass is utterly enchanting and when I was drinking this with a close friend, we immediately stopped talking and allowed the wine to open up. A sweet core of fruit and floral tones lead off: freshly picked blueberry, blackberry, wild flowers, damp violet, black raspberry, licorice. Following lockstep are components of savory herbs, exotic spices, cured meat, underbrush, olive pit, and wet stone. The pureness of fruit clings to you throughout the finish and despite its youth, it is resoundingly accessible right now. If patient, the wine will truly begin to blossom in the next 3-5 years and will develop into a stunning work of art around its eighth birthday. A note to committed collectors: buy what you can and stow some away in your cellar for 10-20 years; a major payoff awaits. If opening soon, I recommend decanting for 30-45 minutes and consuming around 65 degrees in large Bordeaux stems. It’s a classic expression of the Northern Rhône, and the accompanying recipe follows suit. Enjoy!
