Domaine Maume has been a stalwart producer in Gevrey-Chambertin for generations, known for its profound Pinot Noirs from one of the better collections of vineyards in the village. In 2011, the property was purchased by Canadian entrepreneur Moray Tawse, who, along with partner (and fellow Canadian) Pascal Marchand, has infused it with new life—first and foremost by employing more natural farming practices in legendary sites such as the Premier Cru “Lavaux-St-Jacques,” source of today’s excellent 2014.
Over the last few years, we’ve been following the progress of this exciting new venture, and recently, we had the chance to sit down with Mark Fincham, the British-born winemaker at Maison Marchand-Tawse, who led us through a wide-ranging tasting of their offerings—several impressive bottlings from their ‘micro-négociant’ operation (called Marchand-Tawse) as well as this and other releases from Maume, now labeled under the name ‘Maume by Domaine Tawse.’ Once we got all the names straight, one thing became clear: These expats are doing Burgundy proud, producing exceptionally clean, vibrant Burgundies with lots of soul. As with just about everything they make, this 2014 Lavaux-St-Jacques Premier Cru is produced in eyedropper quantities; nevertheless, if you’d like some pedigreed, ageworthy Burgundy for your cellar at a very appealing price, grab what you can of this one—which, sadly, is just 3 bottles per customer until the wine sells out.
Staunch traditionalists might scoff at the idea of ‘outsiders’ purchasing a storied domaine from a long-established Burgundy family like the Maumes, but the Marchand-Tawse partnership has deep roots in this insular community. Pascal Marchand first came to Burgundy in 1983, and has established a reputation as a passionate vigneron dedicated to organic and biodynamic farming practices. He and Tawse worked quickly to get domaine Maume’s organic certification (2015), and have done the same with the assorted vineyard sites they’ve acquired for their négociant label. Tasting with Mark Fincham, meanwhile, was an incredibly detailed tour of the vineyards of Gevrey-Chambertin and beyond; between Maume and Marchand-Tawse, they produce a dizzying array of vineyard-designated wines, each one treated like a beloved child. Only three barrels were produced of this stunning 2014 Lavaux-St-Jacques, for example, and quantities are similarly small across the lineup.
The Maume parcel of Lavaux-St-Jacques is on the lower part of the Premier Cru slope, and features some alluvial material (gravel) on top of Premeaux limestone (the same bedrock as the Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru). Under Pascal Marchand’s supervision, the vineyard is now worked by horse and plow and is certified organic, with biodynamic preparations also incorporated according to the lunar calendar. Fruit is hand-harvested and completely de-stemmed prior to fermentation on indigenous yeasts. Aging takes place in 70% new French oak for a period of 18 months, after which the wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Those of you who remember the Maume wines of yore will notice a brighter, more fruit-driven, less rustic interpretation of Lavaux-St-Jacques from the Marchand/Tawse/Fincham triumvirate. There is great tension and sweet perfume in this 2014, which displays a shimmering garnet-red core moving to pink and light garnet hues at the rim. The aromas are concentrated, heady even, but also floral and lifted: there’s black and red cherry, blackberry, wild mushrooms, damp violet and rose petals, forest floor, turned earth, and hints of baking spice. It’s nearly full-bodied, with soft and layered tannins allowing early drinkability, but the true magic of this wine will be seen after its 10th birthday. I highly advise trying a bottle in its youth and forgetting about the rest until 2020 at the minimum. If enjoying this wine now, decant it about an hour before serving in large Burgundy bowls at 60-65 degrees; this is one of those reds whose perfume fills the room, and I can’t wait to see what it becomes with proper cellar aging under its belt. Pair it with something woodsy and gamey, like squab or quail, to bring out its full range of flavors. I love the mix of acid and fat in the attached recipe. That should do the job nicely. Enjoy!
