It’s important to remember that the French concept of terroir that we all hold so dear doesn’t refer solely to the soil in which a vine is grown. Though the word comes from ‘terre’ (French for soil/ground/earth), ‘terroir’ nevertheless refers to the “total natural environment” of a vine—soil, yes, but also microclimate, altitude, aspect of the vineyard, and other factors.
This wine hammers the concept of terroir home in every way, from the imagery on its label to the juice inside the bottle, which tastes as if it got there by first flowing over wet stones. Being an avowed Chablis fanatic and a lover of mineral white wine in all its forms, this 2016 Savoie white from Marc Portaz hit all the right pleasure points for me, not least of which was price-to-quality. Crafted from the Savoie’s native Jacquère grape and as bright and refreshing as an Alpine waterfall, the only fault I can find in this wine is how quickly and easily it disappears. If you also love Chablis—or Austrian Grüner Veltliner, or any white wine of the world with a mineral footprint—you need to work Jacquère into your rotation. Just make sure to have it in good quantity, because once you start, there’s no stopping. Luckily for all of us, the price is exceedingly right!
In the glass, Portaz’s 2016 reveals a straw-yellow core with slight green reflections leading out to the rim. The nose takes you to the high altitudes of the Alps: crushed river rock, mountain herbs, lemon blossom, honeysuckle, green peach skin, dewy wildflowers. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied with crisp minerality through and through. It is piquant, a natural cleanser, and works wonders as an apéritif or simply to serve as a relaxant after a long day. I would drink this over the course of the next few years at 45-55 degrees in all-purpose white stems. Or, simply pull from your fridge, flash-decant for 15 minutes and enjoy. This wine deserves the accompaniment of nature itself, so pop a bottle outside of the house. Mine seemed to have sprung a leak while I was gardening, as the bottle turned up empty within the first hour. I assure you, the wine goes quickly, so don’t short yourself! As far as pairing, it is incredibly pleasing as a standalone, but a flavorful Quiche Lorraine with a side of sautéed Swiss chard would absolutely hit the spot. Enjoy!