At some point, we should put together a SommSelect “greatest hits” compilation—and if we do, today’s wine from Luneau-Papin will surely be on it. Although we’re hardly alone in thinking so, we still don’t say enough about Muscadet as a ‘collectible,’ age-worthy white wine.
Of course, it’s important to distinguish between industrial-scale producers—of which there are plenty in the vast Muscadet Sèvre et Maine AOC—and true artisans like Pierre-Marie Luneau, the ninth-consecutive generation stewarding this revered family estate. I can’t stress enough how vast the chasm is between the assembly-line “grocery store” Muscadet most Americans know and the genuine article we are offering today. It’s like comparing a pack of Twizzlers to a handful of freshly picked strawberries: one is a lifeless confection, the other a world-class expression of place. In the capable hands of masters like Pepière, l’Ecu and Luneau-Papin, Muscadet is no longer a simple table wine but one of Europe’s most precise and intensely mineral whites—for me, it’s on par with Premier Cru Chablis, top Austrian Grüner and the very best old-school Sancerre. This 2015 botting, “Le Verger,” was brought over for us as an exclusive, and I’d be hard-pressed to think of another white that so spectacularly over-delivered. We simply had to get more and offer it again—if you missed it the first time around, be sure not to do so again.
Domaine Luneau-Papin has continuously produced Melon de Bourgogne-based whites since the 1700s, and over the succeeding centuries, has earned a reputation for winemaking excellence and meticulous farming. “Le Verger” is an extremely rare bottling that isn’t typically exported to the US, but we had to have it: Sourced from decades-old vineyards planted in shallow shale soils, this deep and expressive white has no business whatsoever costing this little. Its village of origin is La Chapelle-Heulin, which sits just off the marshy southern bank of the Loire River 45 minutes east of where it empties into the Atlantic. After these organically farmed vineyards are harvested by hand, juice is pressed into steel tanks where it ages on lees for 11 months with intermittent bâtonnage (lees stirring), but zero racking before bottling. By eschewing oak and elaborate cellar technique, the wine’s purity and boundless energy are accentuated and preserved for years to come.
In the glass, the 2015 Domaine Luneau-Papin “Le Verger” shows saturated light golden-yellow notes with green highlights on the rim. It is about as aromatically expressive and pure an example of Muscadet as one will ever encounter. Vivid yellow apple core, just-underripe Asian pear, citrus pith, and lemon peel fruit notes serve as the backdrop for impossibly detailed oyster shell, shattered stone, and wet granite mineral texture. Finally, everything is coated with a delicate dusting of exotic white flower and nori. This is an exquisitely terroir-driven wine whose mouth-watering acidity makes it incredibly versatile with food. Roast chicken, pork rillettes, and chèvre are all obvious winners. Still, oysters, simply shucked then eaten alongside a glass of chilled Muscadet, remain one of the greatest pairing on earth (just please don’t touch the hot sauce!). If you wish to take this terroir party to the next level, try lightly seared scallops. This particular recipe is a standard in my house for a reason.
One final note: Despite how loudly this bottle begs to be emptied today, please take our word that it is equally suited for aging. Its dense mineral architecture and electric acidity provide everything necessary to ensure 6-8 years of flattering evolution. Given Muscadet’s modest price point, these wines tend to get drunk up in their youth. Still, anyone who’s enjoyed an older bottle of Domaine de la Pepière’s Muscadet “Clos des Briords” or any of Luneau-Papin’s whites can attest that aged Muscadet is a unique (and pleasantly affordable) treat. As time melts away the piercing acidity and rounds out its texture, the wine’s exotically leesy aromatics become its centerpiece. Properly aged “grower” Muscadet is a brilliant coup for anyone wishing to add depth and diversity to their collection of bone-dry French whites. Enjoy!
