Not long ago, we offered a 2013 Échezeaux from Anne Gros’ cousin, Bernard Gros, who runs the historic Gros Frère et Soeur domaine in Vosne-Romanée. The Gros surname is widely celebrated in Vosne, with Anne representing one of four different ‘Gros’ domaines in the Côte de Nuits. Today we are honored to offer her highly acclaimed Échézeaux, sourced from a small lieu-dit, “Les Loächausses.”
This is what great Burgundy is all about. After visiting with Anne last year, it is clear she has distinguished herself with a range of Burgundies that are accessible in their youth but also site-expressive and capable of long aging, headlined by three Grand Cru reds: this one; Richebourg; and Clos Vougeot “Le Grand Maupertui.” Rarely are we able to get our hands on her wines, but whenever some is offered, we greedily snap it up: Today we have a small parcel of her spectacular 2013 Échézeaux “Les Loächausses” to share with our top customers, and if you are looking to add a blue-chipper to your cellar without breaking the bank, this would be a superb choice. We can offer up to 6 bottles per customer until it sells out, which I expect it will!
The 6.5-hectare Anne Gros estate (she took over for her father, François Gros, in the late-1980s) is, as noted above, studded with vineyard gems and meticulously run by its namesake. The “Les Loächausses” parcel is one of 11 sub-sections of the Échezeaux Grand Cru, with Anne’s parcel measuring just under one hectare. This is a prime, ‘mid-slope’
site, at the “Vosne end” of the vineyard, with stony, well-drained soils rich that allow for deep root penetration and concentrated fruit. As with the Gros Frère 2013 from our previous offer, this wine shows no indication that 2013 was a difficult vintage: its concentration and aromatics are profound, and, as is typical of Anne Gros wines, there’s a sleek, polished feel to it.
Anne farms her vineyards according to lutte raisonnée principles, essentially working organically except in extreme emergencies. Grapes for her wines are always hand-harvested, with reds fermented in enamel-lined concrete vats and aged in barrel for 16 months. For the Grand Cru wines, about 80% of these barrels are new.
Because its largest single landowner is the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, the Échézeaux Grand Cru comes with some pretty lofty expectations (DRC’s Échezeaux will run you $1,000+ per bottle, if you can find it). I’d say Anne Gros met those and then some in 2013: In the glass this sumptuous red is a deep garnet moving to light ruby at the rim. The wine’s bouquet is stunning, with highly perfumed aromas of sweet black cherry, wild strawberry, black raspberries, damp rose petals, purple flowers, wild mushrooms, exotic baking spices, cedar, and dark, humid earth. It has the silky, fine-grained texture that is a signature of the best wines around Vosne-Romanée/Flagey-Échézeaux. The oak influence is noticeable, but not overwhelming, and with time will it integrate into the dense fruit. Overall it’s a luxurious, very sexy red that can be enjoyed now. Ideally pull the cork (do not decant) and leave it open in a cool place for 2-3 hours to slowly open up before serving at 60-65 degrees in large Burgundy stems. If you are going to pull the cork and drink it immediately, a 20-30 minute decant is advised before serving. The wine’s polish and purity of fruit brought the attached recipe immediately to mind. Fancy is highly appropriate here. Enjoy!