Rosé Champagne is one of the most exquisite beverages on earth. And yet, only a small percentage of the rosé Champagne we taste makes it onto the site, often because of quality-to-price measurements. Some rosés are too austere, others overly fruity, but all share a tendency to be pricy, regardless of how much Pinot Noir—said to be a more expensive grape to grow than Chardonnay—is in the wine.
All of which makes me appreciate even more the pitch-perfect rosé of A. Chauvet. For those that enjoy the craftsmanship and finesse of Billecart-Salmon’s Rosé—which we raved about in one of our recent offerings—this deserves to join its ranks of impeccable balance (and near exact color). Chauvet’s Grand Rosé showcases elegance and freshness, while providing a rich backbone of fruit that many rosé Champagnes fail to do. For my personal taste, that’s a near-perfect wine and Chauvet could very well become your new favorite value producer; they’ve certainly grabbed my attention. When I tasted this wine three months ago, there wasn’t any to be had in the country, so I made a special order to bring some over direct from Champagne; today I can happily offer a case per customer. For personal consumption, a gift for friends and family, whatever it may be, it’s a stunning and uniquely affordable rosé that should not be missed!
The daily operations and winemaking duties at A. Chauvet are respectively handled by the Paillard-Chauvet brothers, Jean-François and Arnaud. They come from a pedigreed lineage and those who enjoy Champagne will recognize some of the following names. Jean-François is cousin to respected growers Pierre Paillard and Bruno Paillard, and a nephew to the former owner of Gosset—which can claim to be the oldest wine house in Champagne (est. 1584). A. Chauvet, however, dates back to 1848 and has remained in family hands the entire time. Take their motto, for example: “The greatest tradition of Champagne.” They are serious about preserving their family name and bottling only the finest bubbles. It’s all music to my ears.
Grand Rosé is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir all sourced from the chalky bedrock of Grand Cru village Tours-sur-Marne. Grapes from sustainably-farmed vines averaging 35 years old were hand harvested (a requirement of the Champagne AOC) and each parcel was vinified separately. Reserve wines, stored in neutral oak casks, made up 20% of the final blend and malolactic fermentation was blocked to create a more precise style. The wine aged for 36 months (the minimum requirement is 15 months) on the lees in hand-dug chalk cellars from 1798; this extended aging period provided the depth and richness you’ll find in today’s wine. Additionally, A. Chauvet is one of very few remaining producers that still riddles all bottles by hand. After disgorgement, a light dosage (sugar addition) of 4.5 grams/liter was added, along with the addition of still Pinot Noir from their family-owned Grand Cru vineyards in Bouzy.
In the glass, it displays a pale salmon core moving to slight pink hues with intensely rising beads. The richness mentioned earlier is readily apparent on the nose, with peach flesh, raspberry, strawberry, dried orange peel, rose petal, creamy lees and exotic spice notes. The palate is lush and round coupled with superb tension and controlled acidity. It’s clean, fresh, and confirms the red fruits exhibited on the palate with the addition of floral components and citrus and pomegranate accents. This is a wine to thoroughly enjoy now, although if you’re a fan of a Champagne’s savory development that comes with bottle age, this will surely sing over the next 3-5 years. After pulling from the cold refrigerator, pop the cork and let it shed a bit of the chill for 15-20 minutes before serving. Avid followers already know, but this should be consumed in all-purpose white stems or large tulip-shaped Champagne glasses (please...never a tall, thin flute). For a perfect (light) winter meal, serve it alongside the attached recipe for pan-roasted salmon.