‘New,’ or new-ish, wines from Napa with high-end ambitions typically come with a high-end price tag. The cost of inputs in California (land, labor, etc.) may well be the highest in the wine world, so when someone comes along with a genuinely serious, Napa-designated red for less than $30, I take notice.
This red is from a small upstart label called Cerro was a refreshing discovery for me: Made from Merlot (the most widely planted grape in Bordeaux) and not part of the four-pound-bottle, celebrity winemaker “cult” crowd, this was something different—a Napa Valley wine of genuine breed, that’s a genuine pleasure to drink, for less than $30. We sell innumerable French, Italian, Spanish, and other delicious imported reds in the $20-$30 range, but frankly, this price range is rarely California’s strong suit. So I’ve got to give it up for Cerro winemaker Derek Beitler, who, instead of adding another mammoth Napa red to the market, opted for more graceful proportions. It channels Bordeaux, while still retaining the rich layers of fruit we all love from the Napa Valley. In a blind tasting, I guarantee those of you who don’t “like” to drink Merlot would think this was $50+ Napa Cabernet from a serious producer. Is Merlot poised for a post-“Sideways” comeback?
In the glass, the 2013 Cerro has a dark garnet red core moving to light garnet and orange hues at the rim, with a nose that highlights red fruits over black: red currant, red plum and sweet cherry are layered with notes of bay leaf, dried herbs, and tobacco, with a nice hint of raw cacao on the finish. Medium-plus in body and smooth as velvet, it is plummy and lush on the palate but finishes with a perfect balance of fruit and earth tones. It’s nicely balanced in every way, actually, and it would make an easy-drinking companion to a wide variety of meats off the grill. The lush fruit puts me in the mind of barbecue, even some with a little spice, which won’t be aggravated by the supple tannins. Serve this in Bordeaux stems around 60 degrees with some dry-rubbed baby back ribs off the grill. That would be a super soigné summer pairing. Cheers!