Château Moutin is one of a diverse range of holdings managed by the Darriet family, whose roots in Bordeaux go back to the late-18th century. Their original property was in Loupiac (there’s a ‘flash card’ appellation for you), where they made botrytis-affected, fortified sweet wines from Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. In the intervening years, the family has acquired a number of small properties on either side of the Gironde River in southern Bordeaux, including Château Moutin in the village of Portets, in the heart of the Graves AOC. Soils are, as the appellation name reflects, predominantly comprised of deep gravel, and the varietal mix in Moutin’s 3 hectares of red-wine vineyards (and the wine itself) is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Median age of the vines is 50 years, which shows in the dense concentration of this wine; among its many charms is a stony, mineral savor that lingers on the finish.

Brother-sister team Jean-Christophe Darriet and Sandrine Darriet-Froléon run their family firm with an eye toward sustainability, which has been a priority for Vignobles Darriet since the 1950s (they currently have a ‘Level 3’ sustainability certification from the EU; they plow vineyards to control weeds and eschew the use of any synthetic pesticides or fertilizers). The 2010 Graves Rouge was aged nearly two years in a mix of new and used French oak barriques, after which—and this is noteworthy—it spent another two years resting in bottle before release.

Enough ink has been spilled both here and elsewhere about the 2010 vintage in Bordeaux. I don’t think I need to say much more than one word: balance. That’s what distinguishes this wine, like so many 2010s—it is a great example of how power and grace can indeed coexist. In the glass it is a concentrated garnet-red with only slight orange reflections at the rim. The nose is exceptionally concentrated, with notes of black and red cherry, black currant, a hint of cassis, dried herbs, damp violets, tobacco, exotic spice, and lots of gravelly earth. Medium-plus in body and blessed with Merlot’s supple tannins, it makes a big impression then cleans up beautifully; there’s no excess weight, and lots of bright acidity to lend the finish a bright, aromatic lilt. In addition to being delicious now, this wine still has a lot left in the tank—I think it will enter its peak drinking window within the next year and continue aging gracefully for a decade more. If you’re enjoying a bottle (or two) now, decant about one hour before service in large Bordeaux stems. This is a heady glass of wine and deserves a rich, bistro-y foil: the attached recipe for braised beef cheeks should do the job nicely. Enjoy!