File this one under “ICYMI”: Back in February, we offered the 2011 Hermitage Rouge “Farconnet” from northern Rhône superstar Jean-Louis Chave, and, not only did we not have enough of it to satisfy demand, what we did have sold out in record time. It reinforced for me something I already knew: That our subscribership is incredibly savvy.
Fast forward a few months and I’m tasting the 2012 vintage of the same wine, and it’s even better than the ‘11—a touch richer and more generous at this young stage, with an intoxicating perfume of classic Hermitage aromas. We special ordered as much as we could from the importer and, after a bit of rest in our warehouse, the wine is ready to ship. If I were asked to pick a wine that epitomized value-for-dollar, you might expect me to pick something in the $20-ish range. But I’d pick this wine—a reference-point collectible at $75—because “value,” as you well know, doesn’t simply mean “inexpensive.” This is a wine that will move you; a wine that takes Syrah in directions you didn’t think it could go; and a wine that will age gracefully for decades. People regularly pay exponentially more for much less. I think you get my point here—if you missed the ‘11, don’t miss this ‘12!
No one can dispute that Chave Hermitage is one of the world’s finest and most historic wines. Since the 1400s, the Chave family has hand-farmed this same hillside and, in doing so, created one of the world’s most revered wine dynasties. It is impossible to tell the story of France’s Rhône valley or the Syrah grape without referencing Chave’s enormous contribution. Still, as with any truly elite wine, Chave Hermitage does not come easy for those without considerable patience and means. We’ve never offered a bottle on this site for less than $265—and even at such significant cost, we always stress how the wine demands 15-25 years of additional cellar age to achieve peak maturity. So, encountering a deliciously young-drinking 2012 Chave Hermitage that delivers everything we seek without putting a crater in one’s wine budget is as surprising as it is thrilling. This bottle knocked me off my chair when I tasted it and I’m sure you’ll be similarly impacted—it’s an instant classic.
As one drives north through the Rhône valley toward Burgundy, the hill of Hermitage dominates the horizon. This towering granite hillside looms over the village of Tain and is world-renowned for producing deep, timeless, cellar-worthy Syrah. One of my favorite wine scholars and heroes, Jancis Robinson MW, has said that in the entire northern Rhône valley, “no one is more respected than Domaine Jean-Louis Chave.” And it’s true—this is a region/style/variety-defining wine that graces virtually every great 3-star Michelin wine list I’ve ever seen. We are offering the Chave family’s Hermitage Rouge “Farconnet” bottling—a blend of fruit from the ‘lieu dit’ vineyards Greffieux, Diognières and Péleat. To be clear, this is not the most expensive Hermitage bottling that Chave releases, and it won’t live for 100 years (maybe only 40!). Still, for a fraction of the cost of Chave’s top wine, this bottle overflows with classic Hermitage terroir and is firing on all cylinders right now.
The 2012 JL Chave Hermitage “Farconnet” broods in the glass with opaque crimson and garnet tones and slight purple/magenta reflections at the rim. The nose is pure, liquified granite, along with crushed boysenberries, black cherries, cassis, fresh violets, oil-cured olives, exotic spices, guanciale, and dried wild herbs. On the palate, there are layers of dark and powerful fruit on top of Chave’s classic and perfectly articulated mineral core. This 2012 is a wonderful expression of everything one seeks in Chave Hermitage. One of the Chave family’s primary goals is to create a timeless wine which can be handed down across generations. Today’s wine is no exception, and I can’t wait for you to try it. Simply decant for one hour and serve in Bordeaux stems just above cellar temp (~60F). I encourage you to complement this regal and impressive wine with the king of steak cuts, a dry-aged Porterhouse from Pat LaFrieda. Fire up the grill, slice a baguette and prepare a simple green salad. There’s no better way to enjoy a world-class red wine during the Summer.
