As we’ve noted in previous offers, the Delarche property—ably run by Etienne Delarche—is tucked away in the hills of Pernand-Vergelesses, where most of the family’s 9 hectares of vineyards are located. We recently offered Delarche’s 2015 from the “Sous Frétille” Premier Cru, which overlooks the iconic Corton hill and its Grand Crus, and shares a very similar southerly aspect. “Les Combottes,” which is a lieu-dit (a named vineyard without any official ranking), is north of Sous Frétille, situated at a higher altitude and facing east. Altitude, in fact, plays a key role in this wine’s style—it is typically a very perfumed, high-toned, mineral-driven style, one which the wine’s importer perfectly describes as “chiseled.”

 

But, as has been the case across the board in 2015, even the most chiseled styles saw their edges rounded somewhat—I wouldn’t characterize it as ‘fattening,’ in this case, but rather a bulking-up of muscle. Vine age on Les Combottes exceeds 30 years, which was accentuated by the warmth of 2015 to deliver incredible depth of fruit. This bottling was barrel-fermented on indigenous yeasts, then aged in used French oak barrels for about a year. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered.

 

In the glass, “Les Combottes” has a reflective yellow-gold core moving to light green at the rim. This is always an assertively mineral wine, which you’ll perceive immediately on the nose: It leads with crushed-stone aromas layered with notes of green and yellow apple, lime blossom, citrus, white mushroom, white flowers, and tangy note reminiscent of goat’s milk chèvre. With air, the wine broadens considerably, its apple/pear component coating the mid-palate before the satisfyingly stony, spicy finish. It’s a testament to the beautiful construction of this wine that it is tantalizing to drink now (after a rough decant and about 30 minutes of air) but clearly built to last. I truly can’t wait to see what this wine turns into in about 5-7 years; I think it’s already something special, but the best is yet to come. As always, don’t serve it too chilled or you’ll stifle the aromatics—let it come up close to cellar temperature (55 degrees). It will make an absolutely superb partner to white-fleshed Mediterranean seafood like branzino. Here’s a great primer from seafood whisperer Dave Pasternack (Esca, NYC) on cooking whole fish on the grill. I want this now!