Whenever I see one of those “Should you buy a wine based on its label?” stories in a magazine, I cringe. Label design is important, sure, and there are times I wish that wines we’ve offered here had more appealing labels, but still…wines are like people. It’s what’s inside the bottle that counts. With that said, however, there are instances when a wine’s label really captures the style and substance of the wine inside.
The sleek, clean, luxurious-looking labels on Jean-Marc Morey’s Burgundies are a great example of this—it’s an instance where the imagery and the reality are well-aligned. This is especially true of this Chassagne-Montrachet “La Bergerie” from the generous 2014 vintage. It is serious Burgundy Chardonnay, from one of my all-time favorite producers, sourced from a well-situated vineyard site close to Chassagne’’s border with Puligny-Montrachet. And while it doesn’t carry a Premier Cru designation, it sure tastes like it should. This would make a smart, stylish addition to any well-chosen cellar, and, as with many ‘14s, it’s on fire now! You should get all the 2014 whites you can—trust me on this.
Having just returned from Burgundy, where I got the chance to taste a wide array of 2014 Burgundies, I have to say I am a huge fan of this vintage—especially for whites, which have both the balance and structure for aging as well as the depth and texture to be enjoyed now. Morey’s “La Bergerie” 2014 is firing on all cylinders, especially after some time in the glass: It is a deep yellow-gold with slight green reflections at the rim, with an expressive nose of lime blossom, acacia flowers, yellow apple, Asian pear, and hints of raw hazelnut and oyster shells. The fruit is really pure, the oak lending a touch of creaminess but no ‘toast,’ and the minerality is intense driving long into the finish. It is medium-plus in body, and after an hour in a decanter its texture broadens into something quite viscous and satisfying—it’s got Premier Cru-level concentration for sure, presented in a very polished, pure style. Serve it at cellar temperature to really accentuate its textural richness and aromatics, and if you can swing it, grab a few bottles to lay down (I see it peaking 7-10 years from now). As for what to eat with this wine, I’m dying to fire up my grill after a wet, cold winter. These grilled lobster tails should showcase this delicious wine perfectly. Enjoy!