Most people associate California’s Humboldt County with an agricultural commodity that is much more lucrative than wine grapes. There are, in fact, only about 150 acres of vines planted in all of Humboldt, a region that spans 4,000 square miles. I had the pleasure of walking one of these rare vineyards recently—the source of this elegant, beautifully crafted 2014 Pinot Noir from Joseph Jewell—and all I can say is, look out.
Humboldt has all of the natural gifts of some of California’s most celebrated coastal growing zones, and if this wine had ‘Sonoma Coast’ instead of ‘Humboldt County’ on its label it would cost a lot more. Right now, wines like this are tiny-production rarities, but I’m left wondering if Humboldt may be the next frontier for great California Pinot Noir.
In the glass, the 2014 Alderpoint Vineyard Pinot Noir is a deep ruby with purple reflections at the rim, with a seductive nose of wild black and red berries, wild strawberry, black cherry, rose petals, and a gentle kiss of oak spice (it spent 11 months in French oak barrels, one-third of which were new). Medium-bodied and silky smooth, it has some of the depth and saturation of Russian River Valley and some of the nerve (and well-moderated alcohol) of Sonoma Coast. It is lush and polished, for sure, but not flabby or sweet. I’d put it up against some much-more-expensive Pinots from some more celebrated appellations, and I’m convinced it’d show well. The wine is perfectly accessible now; serve it around 60 degrees in large Burgundy stems. And, given where the wine hails from, I’m in the mood for some salmon (or maybe some Mt. Lassen trout, a California delicacy from a little further inland). I like the sound of the rub (and the smoky, woody influence) in this Cedar-Planked Salmon recipe. Maybe I’ll head back up the coast and try to catch the fish myself…