Bordeaux presents a challenging paradox for any thoughtful wine lover. On one hand, the region is home to some of the world's most storied estates, with a multi-century history of producing timeless, soil-driven reds. When properly aged, the best of these wines are the standard against which the world’s Merlot and Cabernet is judged. On the other hand, the region has become ground zero for globe-trotting consultant winemakers and heavy-handed cellar technology—both being employed to produce riper, softer, younger-drinking wines.
These overtly sleek and modern wines arrive with a tidal wave of hype that drives a bull market for speculative futures. It’s great for the bottom lines of the corporations that own many of the large houses in Bordeaux—but for many sommeliers and collectors, it comes at the expense of the wines' cellar worthiness and all-important soil character. Fortunately, we still have outstanding, world-class family properties like Château Belregard-Figeac, who are carrying the torch with wines like this unbelievably delicious (and reasonably priced) 2012 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru.
This wine is a textbook example of the more ‘classical’ side of Bordeaux. With thriving, organically farmed vineyards situated in Grand Cru real estate, Château Belregard-Figeac makes Bordeaux very much in the style it was made 50 years ago. The small estate has been owned and worked by multiple generations of the same family since 1853. Two brothers, Jacques and Jean-Paul Pueyo, currently oversee all operations of the estate, with the next generation (Jacques’ son, Christophe) gradually assuming greater responsibility in the vines and cellar. And while the generations of the Pueyo family change with time, the estate's house style remains constant.
Belregard-Figeac’s vineyards hug the gentle, rolling hills just outside the village of Saint-Émilion and bordering Pomerol. Saint-Émilion is a sizeable AOC, known for its variety of soil types. More than 17 distinct combinations of soil and subsoils are classified in the village and the stylistic diversity of wines produced here is similarly broad. At Belregard-Figeac, the soil is deep, mineral-rich, and dominated by sand. Compared to the Médoc, this area’s soils are more fertile and vines are more vigorous so they demand significantly wider spacing (almost twice that of the Médoc). Merlot is the dominant grape variety (+/- 60%) at this small, family property, with minority plantings of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Vine age averages an impressive 40 years, but that is not the most exciting aspect of Belregard-Figeac’s vineyards: The property has recently received certification for its commitment to organic farming, which is difficult in Bordeaux’s cold Atlantic climate; when a small family-owned château with limited resources like Belregard-Figeac makes the jump, it’s deserving of special recognition.
Cellar work for the 2012 vintage at Belregard-Figeac reads like a playbook for producing classic “golden age” red Bordeaux. Following 72 hours of maceration in the château’s cold cellar, fermentation proceeded in a mix of cement and stainless steel tanks. This continues for two-and-a-half to three weeks depending on the tank. Thereafter, 50% of the wine was racked into French oak barriques (half new, half neutral) for 18 months of aging, while the other half remained untouched in cement tank. Ultimately, the barrel-aged and tank wine are blended together before being gently fined with egg whites—this is old school winemaking!
In the glass, the 2012 looks exactly how I want a traditional Saint-Emilion to look. A concentrated garnet core transitions to a translucent ruby rim, but there is no excessive opacity here. This is an authentic, artisan-crafted wine, the product of clean organic farming and a simple approach in the cellar. Aromatically, it is a feast: red currant, black plum, red and black berry fruits, wet stone, dark roast coffee, cigar tobacco, and a subtle kiss of oak spice round out the gorgeous nose. Two things excite me most about its palate impression. First, the “sleeper” 2012 vintage has gifted this bottle with well-integrated tannins and a softness and plushness of fruit that allow it to drink deliciously right now. This bottle is by no means peaking yet—but it requires no further cellaring, an unusual treat for a 4-5-year-old, traditionally styled Saint-Emilion. Second, this bottle has enough youthful energy and freshness to ensure it will evolve for many years if properly cellared. It’s a “win-win” scenario for Bordeaux lovers. If you wish to enjoy this wine now, I encourage you to decant for 90 minutes before serving at 60 degrees in large Bordeaux stems. For those cellaring this modestly priced gem, I expect it will improve for another 6 to 8 years before enjoying a plateau of optimal drinking for 4-5 years thereafter. The wine's humane proportions and distinct soil character make it a great food partner as well—crack a bottle alongside this great-looking recipe for
Flank Steak Bordelaise.
