As I taste this 2014 Corton-Renardes from Domaine Marius Delarche, I think about musicians who perform well into their old age and never really lose a step: Sinatra, Aretha Franklin, B.B. King, Les Paul...maybe they’re less tonally pure and forceful in their later years, but not by much, and in any case the evolution of their sound makes them more resonant, not less.
Delarche’s 2014 is a perfectly articulated expression of Grand Cru red Burgundy, and a wine I expect will still be hitting the high notes many years down the line. You will love it now, especially at this price, but it promises to be even more enchanting on its 30th birthday. This is investment-grade wine for less than $100 (not a common sight in the Grand Cru world), so we were thrilled to lock down an allocation to share.

The 2014 Corton-Renardes displays a red ruby core with light garnet reflections on the rim. Highly aromatic, with a subtle yet haunting spice, the nose reveals notes of red plum, red cherry, strawberry and a touch of pomegranate over freshly cut wildflowers, black tea, dried mushroom, a kiss of umami and crushed black rocks. On the palate, this full-bodied Pinot serves up layered richness, density and a mineral-driven rusticity classic to Corton—then lingers on the palate with an exotic finish. It is powerfully structured, with tannins that exemplify why wines from this site are some of longest-lived in Burgundy. At this point in its life, it is a case study in what young Corton should taste like. I highly advise drinking one bottle now, but store the rest away for the long haul. Another five years in the bottle and this is really going to start singing, though I can easily imagine it improving until its 30th birthday if stored well. I enjoyed a bottle last week and this wine is an absolutely classic, pitch-perfect expression of place. So, for instant gratification, pull the cork 3-4 hours prior and serve in Burgundy stems between 60-65 degrees alongside Les Halles’ classic boeuf bourguignon.