The word “traditional” means different things to different people. But for me, in Burgundy, the definition is both simple and specific: Traditional red Burgundy must communicate soil character and vintage, above all else. In recent decades, there has been a general trend of modern technology and cellar technique producing softer, younger-drinking, more fruit-driven red Burgundy. This focus on the technology of winemaking has diluted the region’s historic terroir and centuries-old tradition—and in doing so, it has encouraged many Burgundy newcomers to overlook wines that require time in the cellar before transforming into something magical. So, when I try to turn clients and friends on to Burgundy, I stick to a short list of trusted and traditionalist families. 

Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy is one such property. This family works exclusively in Gevrey-Chambertin and has earned a reputation for capturing the essence of this world-famous village in every bottle. They accomplish this by organically farming many top parcels in the village, and by keeping their work in the cellar extraordinarily simple. The end result is a consistently brilliant lineup of terroir-driven red Burgundy. To enjoy this bottle is to lose yourself in a deep, truly soulful wine and to be reminded of why the Grand Crus of Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits are regarded as the top Pinot Noir vineyards in the world.  

While Harmand-Geoffroy produces 10 separate single-vineyard bottlings each year, the Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is the family’s top wine. The grapes come from the family’s .75-hectare parcel in this historic vineyard—one of the single most important vineyards in all of Burgundy—and are hand-harvested and destemmed before fermentation for 2-3 weeks. The wine is then racked into mostly neutral small French oak barrels where it rests for a year and a half prior to bottling, without fining or filtration. In short, there are no frills or gadgetry in this cellar, just simplicity, patience, and the kind of knowledge and expertise that is passed down across multiple generations of the same family working the same land.

My girlfriend and colleagues can attest that I’ve opened many bottles of Harmand-Geoffroy’s reds in my life, but this 2009 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru might just be my favorite, ever, from the estate. In the glass, a deep crimson red core transitions to translucent garnet and slight orange reflections on the rim. This wine’s aromatic profile is a tour de force, bursting with red and black cherries, wild strawberries, plump raspberries, orange blossoms, dried roses, red tea, damp truffles, wild forest aromas and a hint of French oak spice. As is classic with this estate, a brooding savory and meaty character on the nose augments the perfectly refined and poised palate. Speaking of the palate, time has been very generous with this wine’s texture in the mouth—it is a totally integrated, fully realized masterpiece with nary a rough edge or blemish. It’s gorgeous, and ready to drink tonight. I urge you to serve in a large Burgundy stem at just above cellar temperature. I also advise opening this bottle 90 minutes before consuming; please decant it only if you need to serve immediately. I believe this bottle’s greatest pleasures will come from enjoying it slowly until the last drop is gone, and without any forced exposure to oxygen. Those who take their time savoring each sip over time will be rewarded. This bottle is a Michelin-starred meal in itself, but it will not rebuff a culinary companion. Every so often, we all need to spoil ourselves, and Joël Robuchon’s famed Veal Chop au Jus is about as indulgent a dish as I can recommend to accompany this truly hedonistic Mazis. Bon Appétit.