California Pinot Noir can get pricey very quickly: between rising land costs and the expense of growing one of the world’s most fickle and fragile grapes, higher prices are sort of preordained. Everyone wants to drink Pinot Noir, too, so there’s a premium to be paid for that, too. Yet there are instances when what you are paying for are things like the expensive oak barrels the wine was aged in; its big, heavy bottle; and its scarcity.
Stylistically, what do you expect for that extra money? Size? You can’t be faulted for saying that. If you’re going to pay more money, you want ‘more’ wine—more extract, more power, more oak—right? Well, for me, Pinot Noir is different. With Pinot Noir, less is more; I prefer a Pinot that is driven by its aromatics and lifted by its acidity, and interestingly enough, I often find that at lower price points, as was the case with this 2014 Sonoma County Pinot Noir from Cosa Obra. This was a new discovery for me and a welcome one—a well-balanced, aromatic, energetic Pinot Noir at a reasonable price. Sourced from a prestigious vineyard in southern Sonoma, this is what I want from California Pinot Noir. Price-to-quality like this does not happen often; when you taste it I’m sure you will agree.
Among the many charms of this 2014 is its texture: a velvety smoothness that is quintessentially Californian. In the glass it’s a glimmering ruby-red with flecks of garnet at the rim, its aromas driven by ripe notes of black cherry, kirsch, and strawberry backed by spicy, floral notes: chai spices, dried tea and damp violets. It is saturated without being sappy, a smooth wave of flavor lifted by acidity and supported by tannins of the finest grit. It’s pretty lip-smacking stuff and ready to drink now: serve it relatively cool (about 60 degrees) in large Burgundy bowls and enjoy alongside something that will highlight its bright fruit: I like the complementary spices in this Southwestern Pork Tenderloin recipe. Enjoy!