Our goal here at SommSelect is to find wines that represent great value, whether they cost $20 or $200. For us, “value” isn’t a synonym for “cheap,” except on those rare occasions (like this wine) when the wine happens to be both. The Rieflé family has been making wine in the Alsatian village of Pfaffenheim since 1850, and today a sixth generation farms its diverse assortment of vineyards organically. And even though Pinot Noir isn't a big player in white wine-dominated Alsace, the Rieflés consistently deliver a version that is the furthest thing from an afterthought.
When we offered the 2014 vintage of this wine we referred to it as an “achievement”—a word you might more readily associate with some Grand Cru rarity produced in eyedropper quantities. But might it be a greater (or at least equal) achievement to produce a genuinely complex, organic Pinot Noir (a grape that is difficult and expensive to grow even before you throw in the organic part) at an even stellar price? We think so.
We found the 2015 release to be slightly darker in overall tone—a little more black-fruited (black cherry, black raspberry, black plum) compared to the ’14, although there are there some beautiful red fruit flavors of strawberry and red cherry in the mix. The wine is really well-balanced, with acidity similar to that of a Burgundy, but with distinct flavors of rhubarb, mushroom, and mountain herb tones above the fruit. It has quite a lot of savor (a mulchy, leafy note reminiscent of nettles, which I typically associate with ‘Germanic’ Pinot Noirs from places like Austria or the Alto Adige), and while it has richness it finishes clean, with a pleasing mineral/floral note. Although decanting never hurts, this wine is delicious and ready to drink now: use some big Burgundy bowls and serve it between 60 and 65 degrees, or perhaps even cooler. It is eminently gulpable, with well-moderated alcohol and silk-soft tannins, and I could see it having a pleasantly taming effect on dishes with a little heat from spice. We loved that the Rieflés themselves paired it with a Moroccan Lamb Tagine. That works for us!