If you’ve had the pleasure of trying the sublimely layered, age-worthy Muscadets from biodynamic pioneer Domaine de l’Ecu, it shouldn’t come as any surprise that they do other grapes/wines well, too. Proprietor Frederik “Fred” Niger is known first and foremost for his impeccable, mineral-driven whites from Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, including a trio labeled by soil type: “Gneiss,” “Granite,” and “Orthogneiss.”
But this fanatically hands-on vigneron also dabbles in high-toned Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc as well, producing examples of each that channel some of the established archetypes while remaining wholly, enthrallingly unique. Domaine de l’Ecu’s Cabernet Franc “Mephisto,” of which a mere 200 cases are produced in any given year, is the kind of wine that pops up on a hip wine list here and there, often guarded by a sommelier who doesn’t really want to sell it to you. Otherwise, it remains firmly underground—until geeks like us manage to wrestle a few cases from the importer. We’ve offered pretty much everything Domaine de l’Ecu makes, so an allocation of the 2014 “Mephisto” is a little reward for our loyalty; the level of aromatic intrigue, mineral expression, and life energy this wine offers at this price is incredible.
The Domaine de l’Ecu story begins with Guy Bossard, a passionate viticulturist and one of the early adopters of organic/biodynamic viticulture in the Loire Valley. Back in the early 1970s, when most of his neighbors were industrializing their vineyards, Bossard swore off all chemicals, fertilizers and herbicides. He even went so far as to de-modernize his cellar work. Bossard was certified organic by 1975 and certified biodynamic by 1998, putting him way ahead of the curve on that front, but he didn’t have any heirs to pass his property—and his wisdom—along to. Enter Fred Niger, who has worked side-by-side with Bossard for years and has now taken over viticulture and winemaking in earnest. Working with 25 hectares of vines in the Pays Nantais—i.e. Muscadet country—Niger is the ultimate hands-on proprietor, parsing every inch of his territory en route to wines that are both immaculately clean and terroir-expressive. He currently bottles about 18 different cuvées, which include not just a stunning variety of Muscadets but a Chardonnay, a Pinot Noir, this Cabernet Franc, and a number of other ‘varietal’ wines—most of which are fermented and aged in a mix of terra cotta amphorae and large, neutral oak.
The Sèvre et Maine growing zone—named for two tributaries of the Loire that feed into it just before it empties into the Atlantic—is known for its patchwork of soil types. It’s a mix of igneous and metamorphic rock, with thin topsoils over subsoils that vary from granite to schist to gneiss. The vineyard source for “Mephisto” boasts biodynamically farmed old vines rooted in granite; all vineyard work is done by hand, and harvested fruit is processed at the winery via gravity only. Fermented on indigenous yeast in a mixture of clay amphorae and large neutral oak, the wine is then aged in the same mixture of vessels for 15 months. No sulfur is added.
This 2014 has the combination of finesse, depth of fruit, and floral aromatics that characterizes the best Loire Valley Cabernet Franc (think of graceful expressions like Clos Rougeard and Guiberteau and you’re on the right track). In the glass it’s a vibrant ruby-red with garnet reflections at the rim, with bright, perfumed aromas of cranberry, pomegranate, blackberry, roses, violets, white pepper, tobacco, and a classic Cab Franc hint of mint and sage. Medium-bodied and plush, it’s got bright acidity but not the sharp elbows so typical of Loire Valley reds—there’s a nod to the great Cabernet Franc whisperers here in terms of its floral aromas and supple texture, but there’s also a granitic grip of minerality on the finish that places it here, in Fred’s unique domain. It is exceedingly pleasurable to drink now, provided you splash it in a decanter about an hour before serving at 60 degrees in large Burgundy stems; should you choose to hold it, I’d circle back to it again around 2020, and continue to watch it evolve for many years after. Its purity and nerve make as strong a case for ‘natural’ farming and winemaking as there is on the market now, and it will complement a wide variety of dishes (among other things, I’m saving a place for a bottle on my Thanksgiving table). It’ll be better than great with good old-fashioned coq au vin, and is likely to disappear quickly—so don’t stop at one. Cheers!
