Although Châteauneuf-du-Pape is perhaps the world’s most fluid red blend, with 13+ different grape varieties authorized for use, Grenache is nevertheless the main driver of style in the wines. It makes up the majority of the blend in most Châteauneuf reds, so there are certain things you can be fairly well assured of when selecting one to drink: generous, extracted fruit with a noticeable southern Rhône warmth; soft tannins; and relatively low acidity. From there, however, there are often significant variations.
While some 100% Grenache wines, like the legendary Château Rayas, can be bright, aromatic evocations of the grape (which can summon memories of great Burgundy when tasted blind), I’m always on the hunt for Southern Rhône wines with balance, perfume and freshness—as opposed to the syrupy, pruny, “hot” (as in alcoholic), somewhat ponderous styles that don’t invite you back for another sip. What attracted me to this wine from Château de Gigognan was its combination of power and balance; it is rich and deeply satisfying on the palate, with a clean, not cloying, finish. At this price, it represents amazing value: to find deeply satisfying CDP like this under $40 is nearly impossible. It is one of the most appealing and stylish Châteauneufs I’ve had in a long time. Don’t miss it!
The 2014 Clos du Roi is 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, and its combination of depth and poise is especially impressive given some the difficulties of moisture during the vintage. It has a wonderfully compact structure, avoiding the diffuse, dried-out and pruny fate that befalls many Châteauneufs. In the glass it’s a deep ruby with a purplish tint, in keeping with its Syrah component, and the nose follows suit: mingling with the cherry kirsch lusciousness of the Grenache are notes of black dates, licorice, baking spices, cacao, dried herbs, and some cured meat notes lingering in the background. The palate is medium-plus in body and quite elegant, framed by fine-grained, polished tannins. Layered flavors of wild raspberries, dried strawberries, cassis, cacao and finely crushed stones are present on the finish along with a perfect amount of bright cherry flavors framing the wine up perfectly. For best results, quickly decant this Clos du Roi for about 30 minutes before serving it in large Burgundy or Bordeaux stems. Keep it on the cooler side, say 60 degrees or so to keep the alcohol in check, and try it alongside lamb or duck or something else suitably gamy and deeply flavored. I’d really like this wine with this exotic lamb recipe, for which it’ll provide a pillow-soft landing. Enjoy!