The 1999 vintage in Champagne was a warm one, delivering beautiful richness and pitch perfect balance. This particular cuvée is comprised of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay from top parcels in the Côtes de Blancs, Marne Valley and Montagne de Reims. It was aged five years on its fine lees then ian additional six months in bottle after disgorgement, with 11 grams per liter of dosage before final bottling. Ethereal and electric in its youth, Cristal is simply one of the longest-lived wines, of any kind, in the world, adding layer upon layer of savory complexity without ever losing its acid-driven nerve.

                         

The 1999 has a glimmering golden core with a small cluster of tiny bubbles in the glass, which is indicative of its age (as Champagne matures, the effervescence dissipates somewhat, so don’t anticipate a frothy mousse). After pouring, give it a few minutes in the glass to blossom. The nose opens with aromas of hazelnut, fresh cream, yellow apple and rising brioche, giving way to notes of lemon blossom, white truffle, acacia flower and a touch of vanilla bean. Underpinning everything is a profound oyster-shell minerality, and as the effervescence diminishes further you’re experiencing the Champagne equivalent of a Grand Cru white Burgundy; for all of its invigorating acidity and mineral grip, this is heady, profound, powerful wine. Its impact on the palate is like a perfectly placed karate chop on a pile of bricks—it’s not about the weight or brawn of the person doing the chopping, but the precision and focus of the strike!  

And while ‘99 Cristal would be the ultimate high-end toaster to ring in your New Year, the best place for this wine is on the table with food, be it hard, cave-aged cheese or a decadently sauced seafood preparation. Serve it at about 55 degrees out of a large flute or all-purpose glass, and don’t be surprised if your last sip is the best. There’s a good chance it’ll end up in your top ten as well. Happy New Year!