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Château Deyrem Valentin, Margaux

Bordeaux, France 2012 (750mL)
Regular price$42.00
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Château Deyrem Valentin, Margaux

A lot of younger wine lovers today have a blind spot when it comes to Bordeaux. For all of the great wine coming out of the region, it’s still on the wrong side of fashion. For one thing, the tippy-top of the ‘classified growth’ properties suck up the lion’s share of the attention.
Then there’s the scale on which much Bordeaux is produced—large—which runs counter to a growing desire for the artisanal, the organic, the horse-ploughed, etc. Huge properties owned by banks and insurance companies, using mechanized viticulture and high-priced winemaking consultants, are not what the cool kids are after these days. But, of course, these are broad (and woefully misguided) generalizations. The best way I can debunk them is to put forth a wine like this elegant, classically proportioned cru bourgeois Margaux from Château Deyrem Valentin. Located next door to the famed Château Palmer, this family-run, 14-hectare property is a model of humility and restraint in a region known for luxurious blockbusters. Their 2012 is a model of finesse and charm, an old school ‘claret’ that, given its prestigious address, is almost criminally underpriced—which is why we purchased the remaining stock on the West Coast.
This wine is pure pleasure to drink, displaying the “iron fist in a velvet glove” structure of Margaux without layering on tons of excess weight (or oak). And when I say ‘old school,’ that shouldn’t be interpreted as “lean” or “green” or “funky.” The fruit is pure and clean, the product of the Sorge family’s careful organic farming, but it isn’t overblown. The word I return to again and again when describing this wine is ‘elegant.’

Deyrem Valentin has a long history in Margaux dating back to 1730. The Sorge family purchased the estate in 1928, and it has remained in their hands ever since. Fourth-generation Jean Sorge, while still at the helm, is passing the torch to his daughters Sylvie and Christelle, who have already shown immense passion, aptitude, and dedication in the vineyards as well as the cellar. This particular wine is derived from old vines—average age is 30 years, but some are a century old—which are hand-harvested and vinified separately by parcel. The wine is fermented with only indigenous yeasts in traditional cement vats. The wine is aged in French oak (only one-third of which is new) then fined with only egg whites, which allows the unique terroir of Margaux to show through.
 
The 2012 displays a dark crimson core with light garnet reflections on the rim. The nose reveals haunting aromatics of red and black currant, cassis, black cherry and slightly dried black plum over red tobacco leaf, a touch of licorice, wild lavender, a hint of leather, wet clay, and crushed stones. An elegant, finessed palate unfolds to reveal unexpected power—lush, rich fruit is wound inside persistent yet velvety tannins, for an enchanting, aromatic finish. It’s a joy to drink now, but it will age beautifully for another decade with proper storage. For optimal results, decant for 30-45 minutes and serve in large Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees. On an upcoming winter night, serve this wine alongside another old school classic, Steak Diane, for a pairing that will warm your body as well as your soul.
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France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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