As popular as Sauvignon Blanc is around the world, it doesn’t have a big reputation as a ‘collectible.’ Other aromatic varieties, like Riesling, get more critical love. But Domaine Vacheron’s 2014 Sancerre ‘Les Romains’ is another story altogether.
It’s not just Sauvignon Blanc at its best. It’s white wine at its best, as age-worthy as anything you’ll find from Burgundy, or the Mosel – from a vineyard that ranks with the most storied crus in the world. Combine this treasured real estate with old vines, biodynamic farming, and meticulous, traditional winemaking and you get a mind-bending expression of Sauvignon Blanc that transcends varietal categories. It’s a sensory experience you will never forget. With mesmerizing vitality in its youth, this wine will easily age a decade or more. It’s as collectible a white wine as any we’ve recommended here. (Very little of this precious wine reaches our shores and we can only offer six bottles per person.)
The medieval village of Sancerre rests on the eastern edge of the appellation that takes its name, atop a hillside that overlooks a sea of vineyards. This idyllic setting is where the Vacherons have crafted world-class Sancerre for three generations. In charge of this incredible legacy are cousins Jean-Laurent and Jean-Dominique Vacheron, who took the reins of the world-famous Domaine from their fathers. After extensive study around the world, they returned to their hometown and the family winery with a passion for the purest vineyard practices possible. While their fathers had always practiced natural winemaking techniques, it was the cousins who pushed for organic and biodynamic certification (obtained in 2003/2004). This direction has already resulted in even more pronounced characteristics of terroir and a profound level of energy and focus in their wines. Their dedicated work in the vineyards transmits the ethereal essence of this remarkable site’s silex soils.
The Les Romains vineyard is comprised of 50-million-year-old silex soils, which are flint infused with fossilized seashells. The vines are over 60 years old and offer ample concentration as well as unmistakable gout de terroir. This site, named after the Romans that once cultivated this same vineyard, is produced as a reserve bottling and represents the most profound expression in the estate’s peerless lineup of wines. In keeping with their organic/biodynamic certifications, they plow the soils, fertilize with natural compost, plant cover crops between the rows of vines, and hand harvest even smaller yields than their neighbors. The pristine grapes are gently pressed then fermented/aged in large wooden casks and stainless steel tanks before bottling, which results in ideal freshness, varietal purity and a mineral expression that is a snapshot of Sancerre at the pinnacle of its potential.
The 2014 Les Romains displays a straw yellow core with green reflections throughout the glass. The concentrated nose reveals an array of fruit that showcases an expression of Sauvignon Blanc that rarely achieves this level of complexity. It has aromatics of passion fruit, guava, green apple, green peach pit, gooseberry and green mango peel, which delineates into a savory display of wet herbs and distinct flint minerality. The palate delivers incredible power, electrifying depth and texture, which is wound throughout a mineral-drive that is a true testament to this treasured site’s exceptional terroir. Although this wine is stunning in its current state, another 7-10 years will reveal even more complexity that will be well worth the wait. For instant gratification, decant for a minimum of one hour and serve in Bordeaux stems between 50-55 degrees.