This offer has that feel of ‘getting in on the ground floor’ of a venture that’s about to get very big. In fact, SommSelect is excited to be releasing the 2013 vintage of On Q’s “Appassionata” even before the winery does.
It’s like the most delicious kind of IPO – a true garagiste wine from Napa that hasn’t (yet) been bid up into the stratosphere, a wine that could easily hold its own in a blind tasting alongside three- and four-figure cult superstars. And since only 4 barrels of this polished, concentrated Cabernet were made, our allocation won’t last long. Certainly once people find out about this wine, the price is bound to go through the roof.
Steve Brady is the dreamer behind On Q, which actually did originate in his garage. An amateur winemaker who has lived in Napa’s Browns Valley for some 50 years, Steve crafted his first vintage back in 2005. When he decided to take his project to the next level, he teamed with famed Bordeaux-born winemaker Julien Fayard, and a new ‘cult wine’ was born. With incredible density and texture, this modern-style Napa Valley Cabernet is a new-generation collectible. An avid trumpet player, Steve named his label “On Q” in honor of the musical term for a player that is perfectly in line with the music – an ideal analogy for this beautifully balanced yet opulent wine.
Steve studied viticulture and enology in Napa, but truly learned his craft from the ground up. The pleasure of sharing his wines and witnessing the joy the experience brought to people’s lives motivated Steve to bring his operation to the next level. In 2010, On Q enjoyed its successful first commercial vintage, then Steve hooked up with Julien Fayard to serve as winemaker for the label. What the passionate duo have accomplished in a couple of years is extraordinary. While the world of Napa Valley Cabernet can drastically vary from lean, old world expressions to full-bodied luxury (which occasionally passes over into raisined fruit), this example is a classic expression of rich, cult-style Cabernet of ideal ripeness that still retains a near-perfect, fresh balance.
Before winemaker Julien Fayard became one of the hottest names in Napa, he worked at first-growth Chateau Lafite-Rothschild in Bordeaux, where he honed his signature style. Love of the surf and the California sunshine brought him to Napa where he worked under famed Philippe Melka at Quintessa. Today, Julien is one of the most revered names in the Valley. His non-interventionist winemaking methods transform grapes from premium parcels into something spectacular and the Appassionata is no exception. Derived from the meticulously manicured Lambert Family Vineyard in Napa’s Coombsville appellation, this wine walks the tightrope between lush richness and balance.
In southeastern Napa, Coombsville is the valley’s newest AVA and was classified as such in 2011. The gentle caldera enjoys a closer proximity to the San Pablo Bay than the valley floor, which results in moderated heat spikes and cooler temperatures that allow grapes longer hang time and better retention of acidity. The complex volcanic soils coupled with the ideal microclimate led to the AVA classification, which has quickly made this special pocket one of the most sought-after spots in Napa. It is here that Julien finds the wines reveal “more balance, integration, elegance, as well as secondary characteristics,” that set Coombsville apart from other appellations in the Napa Valley. He strives to capture the terroir of the Lambert Family Vineyard, where yields are kept seriously low and painstakingly thorough farming practices result in some of the most coveted fruit of the appellation. The decomposed lava soil and very rocky topsoil enjoys a south-facing aspect that results in ample tannins and incredibly pure, focused aromatics.
The pristine 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is hand-picked and sorted then classically crafted with 3-4 weeks of fermentation followed by 24-26 months in entirely new French oak. The wine is bottled without fining or filtration and reveals a pure snapshot of Coombsville. As Julien says, “this wine is not overly creative. It’s fairly straightforward between fruit and the bottle.” Manipulation is eschewed in favor of capturing a natural product of striking terroir. The only outside characteristic that exists is the complimentary oak influence. The result is an absolutely stunning cult-style Cabernet that is in its vibrant prime now.
The 2013 Appassionata displays an incredibly opaque, dark purple core with hints of magenta and ruby on the rim. The nose delights with aromas of blackcurrant liqueur, blueberry, blackberry, black cherry and violets over complex secondary notes of cacao, tobacco, a touch of wet leather, crushed earth, a kiss of ground coffee, finely crushed stones, vanilla bean and exotic baking spices. The full-bodied palate is layered with dense, captivating flavors that mirror the nose with lush black and blue fruit, coffee, chocolate, a touch of tobacco, crushed earth and beautifully integrated exotic spices from new French oak. As with many modern Cabernets, this forward style will drink at its finest over the next 5-7 years with proper storage, but it is delicious right now and needs no further aging to enjoy. Proper service temperature is crucial for this wine. For optimal results, enjoy around 60-65 degrees in Bordeaux stems after 30 minutes in a decanter. This serious, full-bodied beauty is ideal with a classic steakhouse meal and
this is a marvelous guide to recreate your favorites at home.
