Among the countless legends that surround the Grand Cru of Le Chambertin is one that is linked to Napoleon’s bitter defeat to the Russians. As the story goes, Napoleon left a portion of his munitions behind to carry along an ample supply of Le Chambertin to fortify himself in battle. The lack of armaments was inevitably a main contributing factor to the loss. Only history knows the truth, but one thing is certain, Le Chambertin was and remains one of the most significant vineyards in the world. Over a subsoil of marl lies a surface of scree and fine silt that results in one of the most powerful mineral footprints and powerful expressions of Pinot Noir on earth. David Duband’s small but serious .22-hectare parcel rests atop the highest point of the Grand Cru vineyard, near Clos de Beze. Bordered by forests on three sides, this special parcel of 60-year-old vines is one of the few organically and biodynamically farmed sites in all of Le Chambertin, translating into a wine that is simply pulsating with life, energy and an unmistakable sense of place.
As all great writers must some day find their voice, it can be said that every great winemaker must find his/her own style. David Duband is one of those winemakers – a traditionalist with his own matchless, innovative fingerprint. He has been at the helm of his family estate since 1991. Under his father, Pierre, the family had modest holdings in the Côte de Nuits, which originally sold their grapes to the cooperative in Beaune. Over the years, David has expanded the estate’s holdings and has converted all of his vineyards as well as his long-term leases to organic and biodynamic viticulture under the strict Ecocert. David obtained an Oenology degree in Beaune before joining his father at the family domaine. Once he took the reins, David began crafting and bottling all of their wines in-house, and in doing so found his signature style that has firmly ensconced the Duband name among the greatest in Burgundy. Paradoxically striving to craft wines with, “finesse and power,” that are, “delicate and intense,” David Duband utilizes a rare combination of tradition and modern innovation. The hand-harvested grapes are meticulously sorted then fermented with 80% whole clusters over the course of 17 days. The wine is traditionally trodden under foot 5-7 times and is also pumped over as needed. It’s pressed then allowed to clarify for two weeks before it is racked into 40% new French oak where it ages for 14 months. After settling in tank for 3 months, it’s bottled without fining or filtration, which results in an unadulterated expression of the sacred terroir.
The 2013 Le Chambertin exhibits a deeply concentrated, dark ruby core with slight ruby and orange reflections on the rim. Deep, soulful aromas of black cherry, black plum, fig and blackberries are infused with forest floor, black mushroom, anise and a touch of spice. The brooding, mystifying palate boasts structured tannins and perfect, firm fruit, reminiscent of the nose, that evolves into a complex array of earth and minerality that captures this legendary Grand Cru’s terroir in all its splendor. This is not a wine to pop and pour on a whim but a beauty to age properly in the dark reaches of your cellar for a special moment that you want to keep frozen in time. If you drink the bottle now, you will be stunned with its majesty, but the great moments of this wine will be seen after its 10th birthday.