From one of the most cherished slopes in all of France, this 2011 Côte Brune, from the steeply terraced vineyards of Côte-Rôtie, is a micro-production snapshot of this legendary Rhône terroir, priced at a fraction of its neighbors’ versions.
Chambeyron-Manin’s old-vine parcel of heirloom clones rests on the sweet spot of Côte Brune near the vineyards of the more-famous Jamet, whose wines from this area of the slope often fetch over $300 a bottle. Considering the lineage of the vines, the pedigree of locale, and the meticulous farming and winemaking, this wine equates to highway robbery for its modest price. This tiny half-hectare vineyard produces a mere three barrels annually, which is almost too small to even offer to you here. Nevertheless, the weight, texture, and finesse, akin to fine Burgundy with the heart and soul of Côte-Rôtie, is too extraordinary to resist.
Côte-Rôtie’s “Côte Brune” and “Côte Blonde” are, according to legend, named for two daughters of a local baron – a brunette and a blonde, different in temperament as well as hair color. In reality, the two portions of Côte-Rôtie are named for the color of their soil. Côte Brune, situated on the upper portion of the roasted slope at serious steepness, has much darker, predominantly iron-rich and schist soils; Côte Blonde, which rests on the more gentle southern stretch of the slope, has lighter pale granite and quartz soils. Wines of the Côte Blonde are softer and more approachable, while Côte Brune delivers more minerality, depth, and, above all, structure and ageability.
Chambeyron-Manin’s tiny, half-hectare vineyard is farmed organically, although uncertified, and about half of these vines were planted in the 1930s. The other half were replanted in the 1960s, and the overall vine age here makes for unbelievable concentration and depth of place in the glass. Their mature heirloom Serine clones are rooted in slopes at a 50% grade, which demands entirely manual work in the vineyards. Christianne Manin, great-granddaughter of founder Marius Chambeyron, currently helms this artisanal winery, which is nestled in a garage below the family home in the village of Ampuis. Here the family also own and operate the local ‘Les Jardins de la Côte-Rôtie’ market, which is stocked with produce they grow themselves.
This 2011 was vinified in whole clusters, with native yeasts, in open top, concrete tanks. Following fermentation, it was gently pressed through a traditional basket press then transferred via gravity flow into 500-liter barrels. There, the wine aged for 18 months before it was bottled unfined and unfiltered. It’s about as pure an example of Côte-Rôtie as you will ever experience - and I doubt you will see this rare beauty again considering its miniscule production.
It displays a dark, translucent crimson core with slight orange reflections on the rim. Elegant, floral aromatics leap from the glass over aromas of fresh, near-underripe boysenberry, blueberry, and black plum laced with dried wildflowers, wet violets, black olives, dried meat, a light touch of black pepper and grape stems. It’s a captivating perfume that rarely exists outside great Côte-Rôtie and Burgundy. Medium-plus in body, the palate boasts flavors of fresh wild berries, earth, spices, a hint of salted meat, olive and white pepper, a savory melange of flavors that mere words cannot express.
Although you must enjoy a bottle of this wine now, forget about the rest of it for another decade in your cellar and your will discover a wine of complexity, elegance, and perfume at a whole new level. To enjoy, simply pull the cork an hour or two in advance and keep it cool in your cellar, then serve at 60-65 degrees in large Burgundy stems to capture the elegance and aromatic display of this beauty. For an ideal pairing partner, prepare this
Seven Hour Leg of Lamb with some simple roasted potatoes and grilled vegetables and strap in for a serious meal.
