Today’s critically-acclaimed 2013 Calluna Vineyards ‘CVC’ delivers full-bodied opulence with simultaneous balance and poise that greatly over-performs for its modest price tag. Just a short 20-minute drive transports you from the northern Napa Valley to the Chalk Hill appellation in Sonoma.
Here Calluna’s picturesque vineyards, perched on the western side of the Mayacamas, have the highest elevation in the AVA, which results in retained freshness and balance that is strikingly reminiscent of the red wines of both Bordeaux and Napa. While their Napa neighbors generally demand a much higher price tag, this harmonious red captures all the flair of California with old world balance for a fraction of the price found in Napa. For those of you who love high-end Napa reds, but hate the often $100+ prices, this standout beauty is a wine to stock by the case – or more. Once you slide the cork from the bottle, it will quickly become apparent why the critics are clamoring over this wine – it is undeniably delicious.
Before David Jeffrey founded Calluna Estate in the unique California appellation of Chalk Hill, he obtained a degree in enology and viticulture from Fresno State then set out to learn at the hands of one of Bordeaux’s masters. He studied under Dr. Alain Raynaud at Chateau Quinault l’Enclos and returned to the States with a vision to craft true Bordelaise style wines in a cooler locale than his neighbors. In 2004, he purchased a hilltop site in Chalk Hill boasting the highest elevation in the appellation, which delivers excellent exposure, minimal frost exposure, cooler overall temperatures and retained acidity in the grapes for a balance that is closer to Bordeaux than Sonoma or Napa Valley. As an interesting side note, the owners of Château Cheval Blanc and Château d’Yquem bought land next door – clearly, Jeffrey is on to something. Today, Calluna’s wines are expertly crafted with balance and sense of place as a top priority, and the result is an undeniably pleasurable bottle of wine; old world elegance with a Californian accent.
Although many producers in Napa and Sonoma craft wines from Bordeaux varietals, the majority shoot for longer hang time and jammy fruit, aging their wines in an abundance of new oak which inevitably masks the varietal purity and voice of terroir. Jeffrey chooses to do things the old school way, regardless of what scores often demand, and the critics have come calling with enthusiasm just the same. The critically-acclaimed C.V.C., or Calluna Vineyards Cuvée, is comprised of 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 10% Malbec and 7% Petit Verdot that is grown on a Franciscan formation of sandstone and shale over a volcanic base at 500-700 feet in elevation. The hand-harvested fruit is manually sorted then fermented in open-top tanks, as is traditional in Bordeaux, with twice-daily pump-overs for three weeks. The wine is aged for 21 months in only 20% new French oak and is bottled unfiltered.
The 2013 Calluna C.V.C. has an opaque purple core with pink and magenta reflections throughout. Intense ripe aromas of boysenberry preserves, blackcurrant and black cherry liqueur waft from the glass over fragrances of cacao nibs, leather, tobacco, a touch of crushed brown earth and beautifully integrated exotic spices. The full-bodied, extracted palate has a beautiful sweetness to the core of blackberry, blueberry, and boysenberry fruit and evolves to reveal a hint of spiciness, leather, tobacco, pencil lead and a soft, crushed earth minerality. A perfect candidate for early drinking, this wine will see its best years now and through its seventh birthday, but could handle a decade or more if kept well. Simply decant for 20 minutes and serve in Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees for the alcohol and aromatics to be in harmony. I would serve this wine with a delicious cut of meat alongside sautéed mushrooms and roasted potatoes.